Mariachi cuisine

Sunset, July, 1998 by Linda Lau Anusasananan, Andrew Baker, Elaine Johnson

With flavors as exciting and compelling as a throbbing blast of "Guadalajara" from a mariachi band, Mexican foods are so popular in the West that they border on being basic. In fact, items like salsa, beans and bean dips, chilies, hot and not-as-hot sauces, and tortillas already are. It seems ages since tomato salsa outstripped catsup as the nation's favorite condiment and established itself as the ideal low-fat dip, sauce, and ingredient. And tortilla chips, used to scoop up salsa, are no longer naughty: whet/baked, not fried, they are guilt-free, nutritious nibbles.

Sure, temptations like deep-fried, cheese-filled chiles rellenos and tamales full of rich pork and lard still exist - to be enjoyed now and then. But for most tastes, there's satisfaction in a leaner approach. Try Norman Fierros's Sonoran fiesta, with turkey (a native ingredient) instead of beef as the cornerstone of a bountiful carne asada (grilled meat) party menu. Savor the beautiful soups that Sunset's well-traveled senior writer Linda Anusasananan found in Oaxaca, Mexico, and the main-dish huaraches she discovered in a little Mexican restaurant in Redwood City, California. Enjoy the versatile, playful nature of typical Mexican ingredients in our collection of salads and desserts, from chicken salad in a taco shell to caramelized tortillas with a fruit sundae.

Overall, most dishes are ready to serve in less than three-quarters of an hour. Very few ingredients will challenge the supermarket shopper. And the results will keep you safely and deliciously within the boundaries of light and lean. Buen provecho.

Sonoran fiesta

From the Arizona desert, a gala party for 6 to 8

Norman Fierros's interest in Sonoran food took hold when he was a small boy cooking with his mother, And what he learned goes way back - his ancestors lived in Arizona when it was still part of Mexico. As Norman grew, other cuisines joined his repertoire. Now, as owner of a Phoenix restaurant called Norman's Arizona, he uses Chinese and French techniques to prepare Sonoran favorites, describing the dishes as nueva Mexicana.

His carne asada uses turkey breast, vegetables, and a multipurpose tangy citrus dressing. The jicama salad is much like the relish pico de gallo.

Prickly Pear Margaritas

PREP TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: Look for prickly pears (also called cactus pears, Indian figs, and tunas) with fresh produce in supermarkets and Latino markets. Wear heavy cotton or rubber gloves or use a thick towel to hold them when peeling.

MAKES: About 7 cups; 8 servings

1 1/4 pounds green or red prickly pear fruit 1 cup lime juice 1 cup tequila 3/4 cup orange-flavor liqueur 2 tablespoons sugar 4 cups crushed ice Thin lime slices (optional)

1. Cut ends from prickly pears. Cut a 1/8-inch-deep lengthwise slit through peel on each fruit. Pull back peel and remove from pulp; discard peel. Cut fruit pulp into 1/2-inch chunks.

2. In a blender, combine half of all these ingredients: prickly pear chunks, lime juice, tequila, orange liqueur, and sugar; whirl until smooth. Add half the ice and whirl until blended. Pour into glasses slowly, leaving seeds behind. Discard seeds.

3. Repeat step 2 with remaining pear chunks, lime juice, tequila, liqueur, sugar, and ice.

4. Garnish with lime slices.

Per serving: 176 cal., 1.5% (2.7 cal.) from fat; 0.5 g protein; 0.3 g fat (0 g sat.); 17 g carbo (0 g fiber); 7.6 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Jicama Grapefruit Salad

PREP TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: Jicama, onion, grapefruit, and radishes can be sliced, covered, and refrigerated up to 4 hours ahead.

MAKES: 8 servings

1 jicama (1 lb. or a l-lb. piece) 1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion 2 red or pink grapefruit (1 1/4 lb. each) 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves or 2 teaspoons dried basil 1 clove garlic, pressed or minced About 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup sliced red radishes 1 firm-ripe avocado (1/2 lb.) Pepper

1. Rinse jicama. Cut off and discard skin and any tough fibers. Cut jicama into matchstick-size sticks 2 to 3 inches long.

2. Rinse onion slices with cool water and drain.

3. With a knife, cut off and discard grapefruit peel and membrane. Over a wide serving bowl, cut between inner grapefruit membranes and lift out fruit segments. Put fruit in bowl. Squeeze remaining membrane over bowl to collect juice.

4. Drain grapefruit segments; save 1/2 cup juice and keep the rest to drink. Combine the 1/2 cup juice with vinegar, basil, garlic, and teaspoon salt; return to grapefruit. Add jicama, radishes, and onion and mix.

5. Peel, pit, and thinly slice avocado onto jicama salad. Gently mix and add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 73 cal., 30% (22 cal.) from fat; 1.7 g protein; 2.4 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 13 g carbo (2.1 g fiber); 75 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Grilled Turkey and Vegetable Platter

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes

NOTES: Up to 4 hours ahead, prepare the vegetables and turkey for cooking.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

1 boned, skinned turkey breast half (2 to 2 1/2 lb.) 3/4 cup orange juice 1/2 cup lemon juice 1 tablespoon pepper 4 cloves garlic, minced About 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 red onions (1/2 lb. each) 2 oranges (1/2 lb. each) 2 red bell peppers (1/2 lb. each) 2 zucchini (6 oz. each) 3 ears corn (each about 8 in.)