Mariachi cuisine

Sunset, July, 1998 by Linda Lau Anusasananan, Andrew Baker, Elaine Johnson

MAKES: About 2 1/4 quarts; 6 to 8 servings

1 cup (1 1/2 oz.) dried hibiscus blossoms 1 cinnamon stick (about 1 in.) Ice cubes About % cup sugar

1. In a 4- to 5-quart pan on high heat, bring 3 quarts water to boiling. Add hibiscus blossoms and cinnamon stick. Cover and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Let cool about 1 hour.

2. Pour tea through a strainer, lined with a double thickness of cheesecloth, into a pitcher. Discard residue in strainer. Pour tea, hot or cold, into ice-filled glasses. Add sugar to taste.

Per serving: 32 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0 g protein; 0 g fat; 8.4 g carbo (0 g fiber); 0.1 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

FIESTA GAME PLAN

UP TO 1 DAY AHEAD: Make tea and salsa.

UP TO 4 HOURS AHEAD: Marinate turkey and prepare vegetables for the salad and the grill.

ABOUT 45 MINUTES BEFORE SERVING: Bake yams in the oven. Grill meats and vegetables, then warm tortillas on the grill.

JUST BEFORE SERVING: Blend margaritas.

Summer soups from Oaxaca

With a palette of fresh vegetables, low-fat cooking comes naturally

A pair of brilliantly painted fantasy dogs, sculpted in wood and displayed on a friend's mantel, first stirred my curiosity about Oaxaca. This region, in the highlands of southeast Mexico, is justly famous for folk art like these pooches. And when my art interest turned into a visit, I discovered the foods of Oaxaca to be as richly imaginative.

The backbone of the cooking comes from the Zapotec and Mixtec cultures, which weave together corn, squash, and beans - the revered trinity for ancient peoples of the Americas - with seemingly infinite variety, particularly in soups. In Oaxaca's historic Hotel Stouffer Presidente, a memorable dish was starkly simple - wheels of corn on the cob and chunks of zucchini floating in broth. At the rug-filled Restaurant Tlaminalli in the nearby weaving village of Teotitlan del Valle, a soup thickened with masa flour (corn tortilla flour) and laced with golden squash blossoms, chayote squash, and corn was garden-fresh with flavor. And in a restaurant overlooking the broad plaza of the lively zocalo, a chili-infused soup studded with beans, potatoes, carrots, and tortillas left a lingering memory.

These satisfying soups are naturally light, healthful, and easy to make. In generous portions, each makes a meal, while smaller servings make a stylish first course. Accompany with soft warm tortillas or crusty bolillos (hard rolls).

Corn Wheels and Zucchini Soup

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes

NOTES: To cut the corn, use a mallet or hammer to gently drive a heavy knife or cleaver through the cob.

MAKES: 6 or 7 servings

1/2 cup dehydrated masa flour (corn tortilla flour) 2 quarts fat-skimmed chicken or vegetable broth 2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced 3/4 pound zucchini 3 ears corn (each about 6 in.) 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro Lime wedges Salt and pepper

1. In a 4- to 5-quart pan, mix masa flour with 1 cup broth until smooth. Stir over high heat until mixture boils, then reduce heat to medium-low and stir until masa is thick, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour onto a flat plate. Spread evenly to make a 3/4-inch-thick cake; let cool.