Spectacular succulents

Sunset, August, 1991

If you're ho-hum about succulents, you're not alone. They're often maligned for having that dry look, monotonous and spare. The conventional use--a homogenous selection, spaced uniformly apart, with rocks and gravel for filler--reinforces that image. But with water savings a priority, gardeners are discovering fresh ways to show off the lush growth, rich textures, and often spectacular flowers an foliage of unthirsty succulents.

Among the 10,000 known succulents are practically limitless options for successful garden design. Here we share ways to use choice plants for flower and leaf color. You may have to hunt for some of them. Color strategies. Leaves can range from the bronze red of pork and beans (Sedum rubrotinctum) to the near black of Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop'. Flowers in many succulent groups offer a brilliant bloom period that lasts from early winter through late spring. Consider how the flower color combines with the leaf color of adjacent succulents. Use subtle green or blue succulents to act as a foil for bright, showy flowers. For strong impact, mass plants of the same kind.

For added color and interest, intersperse drought-tolerant accent plants with massed succulents. The tall, strap-leafed form of both variegated Agave americana and New Zealand flax combines well with succulent ground covers. Even green plants, like the Furcraea pictured at right, stand out against contrasting succulent foliage like blue Senecio mandraliscae.

Many succulents spread slowly; an echeveria from a 6-inch pot may take a couple of years to form a 12-ich clump. Two warm-weather annual succulents, Livingstone daisy and rose moss, are useful quick color to fill temporarily between slow-spreading perennial succulents.

Plant care. Succulents vary in hardiness and cultural requirements. Check individual species to make sure they fit your site and climate. The ones described here generally require infrequent watering. If in doubt about water needs, err on the dry side; overwatered succulents rot slowly from the soil surface up. Shriveled and dull leaves may indicate drought stress.

Drip-irrigate larger, widely spaced specimens; low-flow minisprays are effective with ground covers. Use mulch or cultivate around plants to break crusty soil so water penetrates.

Leaves of many succulents will turn from green to a colorful red or yellow when exposed to sun, but too much sun may turn plants a washed-out yellow. Elongating plants may indicate insufficient light. Cuttings from stem and leaf succulents (such as crassulas and kalanchoe) and divisions from pupping types (many echeverias, agaves, and sempervivums) are quick, economical ways to fill a succulent garden. Take cuttings now, while the weather is still warm and dry; let cut ends callus before planting.

COPYRIGHT 1991 Sunset Publishing Corp.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group

 

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