Island day trips - Hawaii Special Section

Sunset, August, 1993 by Jeff Phillips, Lenore Magida

Sooner or later on a trip to Hawaii,after you've basked on the beach and enjoyed a resort's amenities, you may want to pack a picnic lunch, ju a rental car, and spend a day exploring hidden beaches, byways, and backroads. Here are four day tri each on Hawaii, Kauai, Maui, and Oahu--that take you through some of the Islands, most scenic or his

HAWAII

On the Big Island's northern tip, the sleepy North Kohala Coast is flecked with historic heiaus among great snorkeling beaches. A leisurely loop drive can introduce you to both.

Drive the North Kohala loop

At first glance, the rugged cattle and sugar cane country flanking the mountain ridge of Hawaii's northern tip appears barren and empty. And, counted in miles and minutes, the paved roads looping barely 50 miles through this North Kohala district could be easily ticked off in less than 2 hours.

But travelers looking for a change of pace from Kona's congestion or the self-indulgent luxury of Kohala Coast resorts--can easily spend a day exploring fascinating historic sites or snorkeling along the Big Island's dramatic northern coast.

Pack your beach bag (bring a picnic lunch and plenty of water) and start early enough to reach the sleepy port of Kawaihae a little after 8 A.M. Here you can rent a mask, snorkel, and fins for $10 a day from Kohala Divers (808/882-7774); scuba rentals and guided trips are also available.

Early risers can make their first stop a mile south of Kawaihae, at Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site. Early morning's low light is best for viewing the water-worn rock walls of the temple built in 1791 by King Kamehameha--unifier of the Hawaiian Islands. It's still used as a religious site, so visitors are asked not to climb inside, but you can see an exhibit in the visitor center (open 7:30 to 4 daily; 882-7218). The park's annual cultural festival worth a special visit to watch Hawaiian craftsmen in action, is August 14 and 15.

From Kawaihae, State Highway 270 heads north along the coast (October through April, look for spouts of migrating humpback whales) 11 miles to Lapakahi State Historical Park (open 7:45 to 4:30 daily except holidays; X89-5566). Imagine thatched walls and roofs topping the lava rock walls along the path leading down to the beach, and this 600-year-old fishing village comes alive. A printed guide shows where people lived, harvested salt, and played games, which visitors can try.

The park's palm-shaded, rough coral beach is part of a marine life conservation district (no collecting allowed) that offers excellent snorkeling and a good place to spread a picnic.

Lapakahi has no water, but you can get a postsnorkel, freshwater rinse a mile north up the highway at Mahukona Beach County Park, another good spot to snorkel (a water pipe is in the rocks behind the old sugar pier). Seas tend to be calmest along this coast early in the day.

Continuing north toward Hawi, turn left at milepost 20 on the single-lane road to Upolu Airport. Follow the road about 2 miles along a row of ironwood trees to a dirt road, turn left, then follow the washboard track another 2 miles to Mookini Heiau, one of the state's most important ancient religious sites. Mookini was a temple reserved for ruling chiefs and for human sacrifice. According to one legend, the high, thick walls were erected in a single night. This is also the area where Chalon International Kohala Trailriding (808/889-6257) offers 2-hour horseback rides ($60 per person) through working cattle pastures.

Back on the highway, drive through the small farm town of Hawi, continuing 2 miles to Kapaau. There, you should treat yourself to the rich ice creams concocted on the premises of Tropical Dreams (800/548-8050, 808/889-0505). Ackerman Galleries (808/889-5971), which sells works such as lava sculptures by local artists, is open about 10 to 5:30 daily. Across the street in front of the community center is a statue of King Kamehameha that may look familiar. Its twin stands in front of the Supreme Court in Honolulu.

From Hawi, head down to Waimea via the slower but more spectacular Kohala Mountain Road (State 250). Climbing the ridge of the Kohala Mountains, the road winds nearly 20 miles through rolling green hills dotted with cattle, horses, and a new proliferation of expensive ranch estates.

The end of the road is the ranch-village-turned-trendy-town of Waimea, a good place to stretch your legs and do some gallery-hopping before an early dinner at any of several good restaurants. You'll need reservations for dinner at Merriman's (885-6822), one of my top three Big Island favorites for imaginatively prepared local fish and lamb.

KAUAI

Nearly a year has passed since Hurricane Iniki devastated tiny Kauai. Now, with more than a third of the island's rooms back online this summer, Kauai is once again welcoming visitors.

For a current and complete lodging and activity update, call the Kauai Hotline at (800) 262-1400.

A favorite day trip takes you along the scenic north shore to great beaches.

To Hanalei for north shore beaches, hiking