Putting wine to work throughout the meal - recipes

WHAT DO WINEMAKERS do with all those open bottles left from tastings? Much of the wine is used for cooking. Splashed as freely as water into or over foods, wine brings interesting complexity and flavors in return for a minimum commitment of ingredients and technique.

Even if you don't have extra wine, the delicious impact of using wine in the simple combinations that follow, from roasted meats to cooling ices, makes pulling a cork all the more rewarding.

WHICH WINE?

To use odds and ends of wines, it's handy to know which kinds you can mix without confusing their effect on foods. This brief list describes what pools well. If you start from scratch, use wines suggested with the recipes or an equivalent type.

Dry red wines include Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay Beaujolais, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, and any dry red wine blend.

Dry white wines include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, and any dry white blend.

Slightly sweet, fruity wines include some Sauvignon Blancs, most Chenin Blancs, Gewurztraminer, Johannisberg Riesling, and white Zinfandels .

Sweet, fruity wines are late-harvest wines made from Johannisberg Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and even Zinfandel, as well as dessert wines like Moscato di Canelli.

Sparkling wines range from sweet to dry; if a dish is sweet and the wine is dry, you can compensate by adding sugar.

Wine-roasted Chicken and Onions

Rinse and pat dry a 3- to 4-pound chicken: pull off and discard fat. Set chicken,breast down, on a rack in an 11-by 17-inch pan Cut 3 or 4 onions (about 6 oz each) in half vertically and lay cut side down in pan. Pour 1 cup slightly sweet. fruity or dry white wine (choices precede) over chicken Sprinkle chick

Bake in a 400[degrees] oven 30 minutes. Turn chicken over and bake, basting often with cup more white wine until chicken is very well browned, 1 to 1/4 hours. If onions at pan edges begin to scorch, pour a little more wine or water around them.

Drain juice from chicken into pan; transfer chicken and onions to a platter. Skim fat from pan juices. Add 1/2 cup each regular-strength chicken broth and white wine. Scrape browned bits free. Mix 1 tablespoon corn starch and 2 tablespoons water, mix into juices, and stir over high heat until sauce boils. Serve with chick en and onions; season with salt to taste Serves 4.

Per serving: 451 cal. (48 percent from fat); 43 g protein, 24 g fat (6.7g sat.) 14 g protein., 138 mg sodium, 135 mg chol.

Wine-roasted Lamb and Onions

Follow directions for chicken, preceding, except use a 5-to 6-pound leg of lamb instead of the chicken and dry red wine instead of white wine. Trim fat from lamb. Bake in a 325[degrees] oven, without turning, until thermometer inserted through the thickest part to the bone reads 135[degrees] for medium-rare, 13/4 to 2 hours. Serves 6 to 8.

Per serving: 310 cal. (38 percent from fat) 40 g protein 13 g fat (4.6 g sat.); 7.3 g carbo.; 100 mg sodium; 123 mg chol.

Steeped Salmon in Chardonnay Broth

In a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine 2 1/2 cups dry white wine (choices precede), 2 1/2 cups regular-strength chicken broth, 1 teaspoon white peppercorns, 2 teaspoon fresh or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves, 1/2 teaspoon coriander seed. 1/4 teaspoon whole all spice. and 4 strips lemon peel (yellow part only, each 4 in. long) Cover and simmer 20 to 30 minutes

Add 4 pieces (about 1/4 lb. each) rinsed salmon fillet. Bring to a boil, cover pan, and remove from heat Steep until fish is barely opaque and still moist looking in thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 10 minutes Transfer fish to wide shallow bowls Ladle broth over fish Garnish with sliced chives. Serves 4.

Per serving: 189 cal. (39 percent from fat); 24 g protein; 8.2 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 2.8 g carbo.; 91 mg sodium; 62 mg

Wine-poached Carrots

Peel 1 1/2 pounds small carrots (each about 5 in. long). In a 10- to 12 inch frying pan, combine 1 1/4 cups slightly sweet. fruity wine (choices precede), 3/4 cup regular strength chicken broth, and 1 teaspoon butter or margarine. Add carrots, cover, and simmer, shaking pan occasionally, until carrots are tender when pierced, 10 to 15 minutes.

Uncover and boil over high heat until liquid evaporates and carrots begin to brown, about 10 minutes; shake pan often. Serve with fresh sprigs (optional) and salt to taste. Serves 6.

Per serving: 70 cal. (13 percent from fat); 1.4 g. protein; 1 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 12 g carbo.; 52 mg sodium; 1.7 mg chol.

Pears with Red Wine Syrup

In a 1 1/2- to 2-quart pan, mix 1 cup dry red wine (choices precede), 1/2 cup water, 1/2 cup sugar, 1/4 cup lemon juice, 1 tablespoon dried mint leaves, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, and 1 teaspoon fresh or 1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon leaves. Boil over high heat, uncovered, until reduced to 1/2 cup, 12 to 15 minutes. Pour through a fine strainer into a bowl. Use warm or cool.

Slice 3 large (about 1/2 lb. each) firm-ripe Bartlett or Comice pears in half lengthwise; core.

Starting blossom end, make lengthwise cuts about 1/4 inch apart to within about 1/2 inch of stem end. Place on a dessert plate and press down gently to fan out slices. Pour wine syrup equally over pears. Garnish with fresh tarragon or mint sprigs. Serves 6.