Shortcut to Nordic skiing - Donner Summit near Lake Tahoe

Sunset, Feb, 1995 by Jeff Phillips

Cross-country skiers are turning off the road to Tahoe to ski at Donner Summit

Come the weekend, long lines of cars topped with ski racks roll over Donner Summit in a bumper-to-bumper procession that often means another hour or more to Lake Tahoe's north shore. While downhill skiers may be justified in pushing on to the Tahoe Basin, a growing number of cross-country skiers from the Bay Area and Central Valley are turning off Interstate 80 near the summit to enjoy some of the most scenic nordic skiing in the region.

Aside from being as much as an hour closer to home, the area has sheltered valleys and woodlands beneath high peaks that tend to hold snow even in dry winters. The best beginner and recreational skiing in the summit area is on groomed trails, but there are several good trail systems on public lands you can try on your own.

SUMMIT SKIING

About an hour east of Sacramento, the first groomed skiing you come to is just off the Yuba Gap exit, at Eagle Mountain X-Country Ski Area (800/391-2254), which has 75 kilometers of groomed trails. The 15-kilometer climb to the top of Cisco Butte rewards you with a 360 [degrees] vista. Weekend day passes cost $15, $10 ages 7 through 12.

The Soda Springs exit is 13 miles farther east. This area is known for its nordic skiing, in no small part because it's the base for Royal Gorge (916/426-3871), which bills itself as North America's largest cross-country ski area. The resort's 328 kilometers of groomed track offer sweeping Sierra views from three different mountain-ringing trail systems. Weekend day passes cost $19.50, $8.50 ages 7 through 14. A tractor-pulled sleigh can take you to the isolated rusticity of Wilderness Lodge, where rooms cost $295 per person for a two-night weekend package that includes family-style meals, lessons, and trail passes.

The big news at Royal Gorge last season was the extensive refurbishment of 32 bed-and-breakfast-style rooms at the 1920s Rainbow Lodge, on Rainbow Road 6 miles east of Soda Springs. Rates range from $69 to $129 double; the cozy dining room offers the best food in the area.

The Sierra Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge (426-3632) has 14 kilometers of groomed trails ($5 donation for nonguests) and access to steeper backcountry trails behind Donner Ski Ranch's alpine ski runs. The rambling 1934 lodge offers dorm-style bunks and family-style meals; rates on winter weekends are $39 nonmembers, $36 members, $24 ages 4 through 12. The lodge is on Donner Pass Road, just 1 1/2 miles past the Royal Gorge turnoff.

One of the best areas for skiers to get out on their own is at Castle Peak, the next freeway exit east of Soda Springs. Arrive early on weekends to get a space in the Sno-Park area (you must have a $3 Sno-Park permit, available at Boreal Inn, near the Sno-Park area). Walk under the freeway to the trail-head, keeping to the right at the first junction; you'll ski not quite a mile to get to Castle Valley and about 2 1/2 miles over Castle Pass to get to Round Valley.