A trio of temptations - chocolate makers in San Francisco, California

Sunset, Feb, 1995 by Jeff Phillips

Three San Francisco chocolatiers work their magic for Valentine's Day

Come early February, chocolate lovers are invariably drawn to San Francisco. They make excuses about valentine gifts for the family, but we know they really come to sniff the thick aroma of fresh chocolate, hover over glass display cases filled with all manner of chocolate treats, and, as they purchase their gifts, have the server slip a few extra pieces into the bag.

Why San Francisco? The city has been a magnet for chocolatiers ever since Ghirardelli Chocolate Company started production here in 1852. Today Robert Parks, head of the pastry department at the California Culinary Academy, attributes chocolate's continued place in the city's culture to the creativity it stimulates among chefs. "In a food city like San Francisco, chefs have to be creative to survive, and chocolate makers here are doing wonderfully innovative things with quality ingredients," he says.

The following chocolatiers use chocolate they make themselves, and each has a local retail shop, which at this time of year is worth a visit just for the displays and smells. Call far enough in advance and you can order custom-shaped or personalized chocolates for your valentine.

Chocolate Argonaut (60 Grant Avenue near Market Street, 415/834-1060) is the product of Alfred Schilling's 30 years in the restaurant business, which began in his native France and included a stint at Maxim's in Pads. For the last two years, he's been making scrumptious chocolates by hand and selling them from his shop, along with pastries and simple lunches.

Schilling's artistry with chocolate is as much in the depth and smooth concentration of flavors as in presentation. After you've marveled at the huge chocolate train above the shop's small kitchen, you'll find displays of sculpted heart truffles ($1.10) and cherubic angel face truffles ($12.50 for a designer box of 10), along with his trademark pyramid truffles ($1 to $1.50). Call as far ahead as possible for special orders. Schilling carves his own molds for his pure chocolate creations (ask about his Oscar statuettes).

At Joseph Schmidt Confections (3489 16th Street near Market, 861-8682), chocolate purists may shudder at Schmidt's liberal use of color, but even the most tradition-bound can't help but be impressed with his large chocolate sculptures. Popular valentine items include single long-stemmed chocolate tulips boxed with three coated truffles ($7.50) and molded chocolate boxes and hearts filled with pralines ($5 to $40). Every year there's something new, and this year it's heart-shaped truffles (boxes cost $5 to $8.50).

Schmidt can also make just about anything you would want to special order. When I stopped by, he was filling chocolate treasure chests with chocolate shells, anchors, and coins for a wedding party in the Caribbean.

The Candy Jar (210 Grant, 391-5508) is so small that four customers are a crowd, but no matter. The treasures within are small as well. Unlike Schilling and Schmidt, who bring sculptural flair to their creations, Hungarian-born Maria Stacho specializes in truffles, creating more than 80 kinds ($1.50). Her mainstays are decorated truffles in 31 flavors, which can be packed in a molded chocolate heart box (a chocolate box of six costs $15).

Bargain hunters can stop by The Candy Jar's small factory outlet, next to the kitchens at 2065 Oakdale Avenue. It's open from 8 to 4 Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays; call 550-8846.