Fast apples and pork, how to work with masa flour, chocolate news you will love, and crisp, fizzy muscats - includs recipes

Sunset, Feb, 1995 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

But, as Alice observes, times have changed. How could chocolate desserts retain the quality and taste appeal she set as standard while also meeting tougher dietary attitudes about fat?

I tasted her chocolate pound cake, and it is clear that Alice found the answer. Her new book, Chocolate and the Art of Low-Fat Desserts (Warner Books, 1994; $35) brings together the results. Chocolate desserts dominate, but others, such as lemon bars and raspberry genoise, hold their own. None looks or tastes as if indulgence has been abandoned. Alice's goal has been not to make desserts taste light, but to make them taste rich and be light. Each recipe includes nutrition facts on calories, fat, protein, carbohydrates, and cholesterol.

Even if the book had no recipes, it would be worth owning for the chapter on the theory and practice of creating rich desserts with less fat. The tips and the philosophy Alice puts forth can be translated to all cooking; making foods lighter and better-tasting.

SEASONAL NOTE

Nostalgic dining and a white salad

If you're in the mood for a little nostalgia, the Fly Trap Restaurant, south of Market at 606 Folsom Street in San Francisco, offers it up with style. The Fly Trap's history predates the turn of the century, when it was known as Louie's. Rebuilt after the 1906 quake, it officially adopted its popular, rightfully earned moniker. The Fly Trap survived for many decades, faded from popularity, and then was revived by the Zolezzi family. The menu has plenty of contemporary offerings along with a delicious roster from its bawdier days: oysters Rockefeller, chicken Jerusalem, coq au vin, and great liver and onions.

I was particularly intrigued by the menu's understated description of a white salad. Executive chef and owner Walter Zolezzi uses all mayonnaise in his dressing and goat cheese on top; I also like the lighter touch and tang of yogurt in the dressing and shaved parmesan to finish.

White Salad

2 heads (about 5 oz. each) Belgian endive

1/4 pound white mushrooms, rinsed and drained

1 cup sliced canned hearts of palm (about 1/2 of a 14 oz. can)

1 cup sliced water chestnuts, peeled fresh or rinsed and drained canned (8-oz. size)

3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 cup reduced-fat or regular mayonnaise

1/4 cup unflavored nonfat yogurt

1 tablespoon minced shallots

Ground white pepper Salt

2 to 3 ounces unripened goat cheese, cut into 1/4-inch slices, or about 1 ounce parmesan cheese, cut into thin shavings with a vegetable peeler

A few slivers of red bell pepper

Minced parsley

Rinse endive heads, wrap in a towel, and seal in a plastic bag; chill at least 15 minutes or up to several days.

Thinly slice mushrooms and combine in a bowl with hearts of palm, water chestnuts, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Remove and reserve 6 to 8 large outer endive leaves. Thinly slice remaining endive and mix with sliced vegetables. Stir to blend smoothly mayonnaise, yogurt, shallots, and remaining lemon juice (to taste). Add dressing to salad; mix well. Season to taste with white pepper and salt. Serve on salad plates, garnished with reserved endive leaves, cheese, bell pepper, and parsley. Makes 4 to 6 servings.