Mein, udon, soba … a guide to Asian noodles - includes recipes

Sunset, Feb, 1995 by Betsy Reynolds Bateson, Pam Eimers

Choose them for their taste ... and chew

Noodles are Asia's fast food. A dizzying selection of dishes based on them is sold throughout the Far East and Southeast Asia in noodle shops and by street vendors.

The noodles are thick or thin, served tender or crisp, hot or cold, and usually in delicious combinations that go together fast.

In the West, most supermarkets stock a good variety of the dried noodles next to the spaghetti and fettuccine, and fresh noodles are frequently found in refrigerated sections. For an even broader selection of noodles, visit Asian markets.

How do you decide which noodle to use? The photograph at right shows the basic noodles you can expect to find. Each behaves differently in some ways, but they all are very similar after being soaked or cooked in water.

In general, you choose a noodle for its texture and flavor, as in each of the following dishes. In the first, chewy fresh noodles, pan-browned, are the hot foundation for a main dish with eggs and sesame seed. In the second, wiry cellophane noodles made of rice or beans swell up instantly when fried to make an airy-crisp base for braised pork. Cold thin noodles support savory Chinese sausages in the third recipe. In the last dish, hot thin noodles go with a stir-fry of shrimp.

Look for the Asian seasonings for these recipes in a well-stocked supermarket. Chinese sausages are in the meat, refrigerator, or freezer section.

Chinese Noodle Cake with Eggs

If you can't find Shanghai-style noodles, serve the salad mixture on 6 cups hot, cooked thin wheat noodles.

1/4 cup sesame seed

1 pound fresh Shanghai-style (thick wheat-flour) noodles

2 cups regular-strength chicken broth

Soy dressing (recipe follows)

4 to 5 green onions (ends trimmed), cut diagonally into thin slices

4 hard-cooked large eggs, quartered

Stir sesame seed in an 8- to 10-inch frying pan on medium heat until golden, about 5 minutes; pour from pan and set aside.

Pull noodles apart to loosen and separate slightly. Lay gently in an even layer in the frying pan. Pour in broth. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, and simmer gently until noodles are tender-firm to bite, 15 to 20 minutes. Do not stir noodles.

Uncover and boil on high heat until liquid has cooked away; watch to avoid scorching. Remove from heat and let stand 3 to 5 minutes. Slip a spatula under noodles to make sure they aren't stuck to the pan, but avoid breaking them apart. Invert onto the pan a 12- to 14-inch-diameter platter with a slight rim. Hold pan and platter together and flip over to unmold noodles.

Pour the soy dressing over noodles. Sprinkle with sesame seed and green onions. Arrange the egg pieces around the noodles. Cut noodles into wedges. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 584 cal. (22 percent from fat): 30 g protein; 14 g fat (2.8 g sat.); 85 g carbo.; 1,129 mg sodium; 274 mg chol.

Soy dressing. In a small bowl, stir or whisk together 1/4 cup each soy sauce and regular-strength chicken broth, 3 tablespoons rice vinegar, 1 teaspoon Oriental sesame oil, and chili-flavor oil or cayenne to taste.

Hot Noodle and Pork Salad

About 1 quart salad oil

3 ounces dried bean threads or rice sticks

2 quarts shredded napa cabbage or iceberg lettuce

Braised pork (recipe follows)

2 to 3 green onions (ends trimmed), thinly sliced

1 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro (coriander) sprigs

Heat 1 to 1 1/2 inches oil to 400 [degrees] in a wok or 10- to 12-inch frying pan on high heat. Pull noodles apart into 4 or 5 portions. Drop 1 portion into hot oil. After 3 to 5 seconds, turn noodles. Cook until evenly puffed, 2 to 5 seconds longer. Quickly lift out noodles with a slotted spoon; drain on towels. Repeat to cook remaining noodles.

Pile noodles around edge of a platter. Mound cabbage in the center, and spoon hot pork onto cabbage. Sprinkle with green onions and cilantro and serve at once (noodles soften quickly). Serves 6.

Per serving: 631 cal. (66 percent from fat); 28 g protein; 46 g fat (14 g sat.); 26 g carbo.; 231 mg sodium; 110 mg chol.

Braised pork. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium heat, mix 2 pounds boned pork butt or shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes; 1 large (about 1/2 lb.) onion, thinly sliced; 5 cloves garlic, minced; 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger: and 1/2 cup regular-strength chicken broth.

Cover and cook until meat juices accumulate, about 30 minutes. Uncover; stir occasionally over medium-high heat until liquid evaporates, the meat begins to brown in its fat, and drippings are a rich brown color, about 20 minutes.

Add 1 1/4 cups additional regular-strength chicken broth and 1/2 cup rice vinegar; stir to free browned bits. Add 1/3 cup canned Chinese bean sauce (or soy sauce, to taste), and 1/2 to 1 teaspoon cayenne, to taste.

Cover and simmer until meat is very tender when pierced, about 45 minutes. Uncover and boil until most liquid evaporates, about 10 minutes; stir often. Drain 1 can (7 oz.) sliced water chestnuts; add to pork. Serve hot. If making ahead, cover and chill up to 1 day; reheat.

Cold Noodle Salad with Chinese Sausage

2 green onions, ends trimmed