Taking liberties with sticky buns - recipe

Sunset, Feb, 1995 by Joan Griffiths, Richard Dunmire

Philadelphia is one of the cradles of our independence, but it has never been able to compete with Boston, New Orleans, or San Francisco in the Famous Regional Dishes sweepstakes. The Philly cheese-steak is a cardiologist's nightmare, scrapple is definitely an acquired taste, and pepper pot soup is of purely antiquarian interest. The Philadelphia sticky bun, on the other hand, is so suitable as a coffee companion that one is hard put to imagine a more perfect breakfast sweet bread.

Nevertheless, John Stearns has succeeded in gilding these gustatory lilies, giving them fruit and nut fillings and a caramel icing. If you can't decide between orange-pecan or apple-pecan filling, make both.

Caramel Breakfast Rolls

2 packages active dry yeast

1/4 cup warm (110 [degrees]) water

1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

About 4 cups all-purpose flour

3 large eggs

Orange-pecan filling or apple-pecan filling (recipes follow)

Caramel topping (recipe follows)

In a small bowl, sprinkle yeast over warm water; let stand until softened, about 5 minutes. In a 1 - to 1 1/2-quart pan over medium heat, occasionally stir butter, breaking into chunks, just until melted. Remove from heat and stir in milk, sugar, and salt. Pour into a large bowl and let cool until lukewarm. Add 2 cups flour, eggs, and yeast mixture. With a mixer, beat on low speed until evenly moistened, then mix at high speed until dough is stretchy, about 3 minutes. With a heavy spoon, stir 1 1/2 cups flour into dough until well moistened, then stir in about 1/2 cup more flour to make soft dough. Scrape dough onto a lightly floured board and knead until smooth and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes; add more flour as required to prevent sticking. Place dough in a greased bowl; turn over to grease top. Cover with plastic wrap and let dough rise in a warm place until almost double, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Knead dough on a lightly floured board to expel air, then divide equally. Roll 1 portion at a time into a 10- by 12-inch rectangle. Spread each rectangle with 1/2 the filling. Starting at a 12-inch side, roll each rectangle tightly to enclose filling; pinch seams to seal. Cut each roll into 10 to 12 equal slices and place, coil side down, in 2 lightly oiled 9-inch-diameter cake pans. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until puffy, about 1 hour.

Bake, uncovered, in a 350 [degrees] oven until rolls are well browned and feel firm when touched, about 30 minutes. Lay a rack on top of rolls in each pan; invert to release rolls. Invert a plate onto each batch of rolls and, holding rack and plate, turn the rolls over onto plates. Let rolls cool until warm or room temperature, then spread evenly with caramel topping. Serve, or if making ahead, cover and let stand up to 1 day; freeze to store longer. Makes 20 to 24.

Per roll with orange-pecan filling: 247 cal. (47 percent from fat); 5.3 g protein: 13 g fat (5.2 g sat.); 27 g carbo.; 133 mg sodium; 48 mg chol.

Per roll with apple-pecan filling: 272 cal. (43 percent from fat); 5.4 g protein; 13 g fat (5.2 g sat.); 34 g carbo.; 133 mg sodium; 48 mg chol.

Orange-pecan filling. Beat together 1 1/2 cups (12 oz.) neufchatel (light cream) cheese or part-skim ricotta cheese, 1/2 cup orange marmalade, 1 tablespoon finely grated orange peel, 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, and 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped pecans.

Apple-pecan filling. Beat together 1 1/2 cups (12 oz.) neufchatel (light cream) cheese or part-skim ricotta cheese, 3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar, 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg, 3/4 cup golden raisins, 2 cups peeled and chopped tart apples, and 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped pecans.

Caramel topping. In a 2- to 3-quart pan, combine 1/2 cup sugar and 1 tablespoon water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Cook mixture, uncovered and without stirring, until a dark caramel color, 2 or 3 minutes; watch closely to prevent scorching as syrup darkens. At once add 1/2 cup whipping cream; simmer gently, stirring often, until caramel dissolves, 2 or 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 2 tablespoons butter or margarine and 1/2 teaspoon vanilla: stir until mixture is smoothly blended. Let cool; if making ahead, cover and let stand up to 4 hours.