Grand survivors in Astoria, Oregon - Victorian homes

Sunset, August, 1995 by Jena MacPherson

Tour historic houses or spend the night in one

Four traders sent by John Jacob Astor set up shop here on the Columbia River in 1811. Eventually, Astoria, Oregon, was born, and it thrived as a coastal port from the mid-1800s to 1922, when a fire ravaged the downtown waterfront. Victorian homes uphill from the river escaped the blaze, and today these survivors serve as private residences, B & Bs, and repositories of the history of Astoria, the oldest English-speaking settlement west of the Mississippi.

Visitors to Astoria can easily spot one such survivor: the 1885 Flavel House, at Eighth and Duane streets, considered by many to be the finest example of Queen Anne architecture in Oregon. The red-roofed mansion was built by Captain George Flavel, a pioneer Columbia River bar pilot who kept watch on river traffic from the three-story octagonal turret atop his house. In 1935, Flavel's great-granddaughter donated the house to the town, and today it serves as a museum.

Since 1982, the Clatsop Historical Society has worked to refurnish the house as it was during Captain Flavel's time. The interior woodwork and much of the furniture are in the Eastlake style. In the grand hallway are paintings of the Columbia River by maritime artist Cleveland Rockwell. You'll also see paintings by Astoria native John J. Trullinger.

Flavel House is open 10 to 5 daily. Admission costs $5, $2.50 ages 6 through 12, and includes admission to the Heritage Museum. If you visit this month, you can have tea and scones in the dining room overlooking the rose garden. Tea will be served from 2 to 4 daily (except August 11); cost is $3 per person.

A block south of Flavel House is Franklin Avenue, with more than 20 historic houses along its eight blocks stretching east to Exchange Street. Small white markers give the names of the original owners and the construction dates. Carry a copy of Walking Tour of Astoria, a booklet with a map that sells for $3 at Flavel House and Heritage Museum. The museum, at 16th Street and Exchange, has exhibits on Native Americans, explorers, and more.

Some of the town's historic structures are included in a home and garden tour August 12 and 13; some can be viewed by appointment. For information, call Darlene Felkins at (503) 325-2203.

ANTIQUE B & B INNS

The 1902 Rosebriar Hotel, at Franklin and 14th Street, was once a convent. Renovated in 1993, it rents 11 elegant rooms (one in a carriage house); some have great river views. A light breakfast is included. Rates run $65 to $139, double occupancy. Call (503) 325-7427.

The 1900 Franklin Street Station, between 11th and 12th streets, is a longtime favorite. Breakfast may include spinach quiche or Belgian waffles. Rates run $68 to $115. Call (800) 448-1098.

At Clementine's, an 1888 Victorian at 847 Exchange, berry-stuffed French toast might be on the breakfast menu. Rates are $55 to $75. Call (503) 325-2005 or (800) 521-6801. Owner Judith Taylor also runs the new Lagniappe cafe in an 1847 building next door; it serves soup and sandwiches.

Newly opened B & Bs in historic homes, all on Franklin, include the 1876 Victorian Italianate Captain's Inn (503/325-1387), the 1910 Craftsman-style Rose River Inn (325-9725), and the 1870 Columbia River Inn (325-5044).

Just one block up from Franklin, at 690 17th Street, the 1892 Martin and Lilli Foard B & B (325-1892) offers terrific river views from its porch. The rate of $47 includes a shared bath and a light breakfast of fruit, croissants, and muffins.