Mints for every taste - cultivating mint plants

Sunset, August, 1995 by Lauren Bonar Swezey

Peppermint and spearmint, of course. But also pineapple, basil, even chocolate

It can take serious stretching of the taste buds to identify a culinary mint in a blind tasting. When you sample basil mint, ginger mint, or pineapple mint, for instance, you might think, "Hmm, the flavor seems familiar, but I just can't put my finger on it." Then someone tells you the name and you say, "That's it!"

Twenty-two or so flavored mints are now available through mail-order catalogs. Regardless of whether their flavors truly reflect their given names, many of these mints go way beyond traditional spearmint (Mentha spicata) and peppermint (M. piperita). Their refreshing qualities add punch to aioli, fish, fruit salads, jellies, lamb, lemonade, poultry, and tea. Order this month for late summer and fall use.

Keep in mind when selecting mints that confusion reigns in their naming. Some may actually be known by several names. Blue balsam mint and candy mint, for instance, are thought to be variants of M. p. 'Mitcham', also called black peppermint. But Arthur O. Tucker, a professor of agriculture and natural resources at Delaware State University and an expert on herbs, doesn't believe that they warrant separate names.

TASTING WINNERS

Last summer we grew and tasted 17 varieties in Sunset's test gardens in Menlo Park, California. These are some we especially enjoyed.

Apple (M. suaveolens): fuzzy grayish leaves with delicate apple fragrance. Grows 2 1/2 feet.

Basil (M. gracilis): heart-shaped, highly aromatic leaves that emit a spicy fragrance. Grows 2 feet.

Black peppermint (M. piperita, sold as peppermint from black 'Mitcham' stock): dark green leaves with dark red stems. More intense than standard peppermint. Grows 1 to 2 feet.

Chocolate (M. piperita): shiny, dark green leaves with a tingling aftertaste - and, yes, a hint of chocolate. Grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet.

Curly (M. spicata 'Crispa'): wavy, spearmint-flavored foliage with stiff stems. Makes good drink swizzle sticks. Grows 2 feet.

Ginger (M. arvensis): soft, pointed, grayish leaves with a fruity flavor. Grows 2 feet.

Lemon bergamot (M. aquatica, sold as M. piperita; not pictured): soft, fuzzy foliage with lemony, floral flavor. Grows 2 feet.

Pineapple (M. suaveolens): fuzzy, variegated green-and-white leaves with fruity, pineapple-like flavor. Grows 2 feet.

PLANT IN CONFINED AREAS

Mints spread rapidly by underground stems, so plant them where they can be controlled - in tall, wide pots (so runners don't touch the ground and root) or in a bed confined by paving. "Mints are like stray cats," says Tucker. "You take them in, give them in, give them some food, and they're yours forever."

Mint flavors develop best if plants are given full sun, plenty of water, and a fertilizer high in nitrogen. For a large batch at maximum flavor, cut when plants are just at full bloom. Otherwise, harvest mint as you need it, and cut off flowers when they form. Mints look best if cut back completely twice a year - in summer and fall.

WHERE TO BUY MINTS

Many nurseries carry a small selection of flavored mints, but for the less common ones, order by mail.

Dabney Herbs, Box 22061, Louisville, KY 40252; (502) 893-5198 (catalog $2). Sells 17 culinary mints.

Mountain Valley Growers, 38325 Pepperweed Rd., Squaw Valley, CA 93675; (209) 338-2775 (catalog free). Sells 22 culinary mints.

Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 N. Pacific Highway, Albany, OR 97321; (503) 928-9280 (catalog free). Sells 11 culinary mints.