Detour to Tubac for Arizona history, arts

Sunset, Feb, 1996 by Nora Burba Trulsson

You'll find adobe ruins, and arts and crafts galleries

It's worth visiting Tubac for the scenery alone. Set along the banks of the verdant Santa Cruz River in southern Arizona, this small community has sweeping vistas of the distant Santa Rita Mountains. Its mesquite-shaded streets are dotted with examples of primitive Spanish colonial and Arizona Territorial architecture.

Tubac's views are enriched by a thriving arts and crafts colony that makes for a day's worth of great discoveries. February brings fine weather, with average daytime highs in the upper 60s. Tubac is about 40 miles south of Tucson on Interstate 19.

EARLY ARIZONA HISTORY

Tubac was the site of the first European settlement in Arizona, when the Spanish established a garrison in 1752 to protect settlers. You can view the garrison's old foundations and a restored 1885 schoolhouse on the grounds of Tubac Presidio State Historic Park (520/398-2252). The park's museum displays artifacts from the original Native American inhabitants and the subsequent Spanish, Mexican, and Anglo settlers.

About 3 miles south, you can delve further into the past at Tumacacori National Historical Park (398-2341), which encompasses the adobe ruins of a mission church built between 1800 and 1822 but later abandoned.

If you're a hearty soul, you can hike the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail between the presidio park in Tubac and Tumacacori. The 4 1/2-mile level trail runs alongside the Santa Cruz River and follows a segment of the route taken by the Spanish explorer as he led migrating colonists from Mexico to settle San Francisco.

CONTEMPORARY ARTS

Since the 1950s, the "colonists" of Tubac have been of an artistic nature, and fine art and crafts galleries abound. The 37th Annual Tubac Festival of the Arts runs February 3 through 11, with 175 local and visiting artists exhibiting around town. The Tubac Center of the Arts hosts a member an show during the festival.

Several of the galleries and shops are located near the presidio park. La Paloma de Tubac is a Latin American folk arts shop. Also nearby is noted artist Hugh Cabot's gallery, housed in a 250-year-old adobe.

Closer to Tubac Plaza, Harwood Steiger offers bolts of silk-screened fabrics, many patterned with Southwestern motifs. At his studio, sculptor Lee Blackwell crafts copper fountains and garden sculpture in the forms of desert flora. Tortuga Books stocks a large selection of Arizona and regional titles.

DINING AND LODGING

Near the plaza, The Chile Pepper serves up Mexican hot chocolate and cold refreshments. Moro's Place, also nearby, features burgers of beef and bison. In Tumacacori, Wisdom's Cafe is popular for Mexican fare.

Just north of town, Tubac Golf Resort (398-2211) is the area's most charming place to dine and stay. The resort (and its 18-hole golf course) is on the site of the Otero Ranch, the first Spanish land grant in the area.

For other lodging options, write to the Tubac Chamber of Commerce, Box 1866, Tubac 85646, or call (520) 398-2704.