For the love of chocolate

Sunset, Feb, 1998 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

"Think of chocolate like wine," suggests Alice Medrich, author, chocolate guru, and founder of the San Francisco Bay Area's Cocolat shops. As with wine, the world of chocolate is one of varietal distinctions, origins, unique blends, and manufacturing methods. But these influences on the character and quality of the confection have long been secrets. Now the nuances are becoming public, and a more aware consumer is bent on obtaining higher-quality chocolate.

Joseph Schmidt, a San Francisco confectioner, uses coffee as a comparison. He notes that chocolate is going through changes similar to those that upgraded coffee in recent years as consumers became aware of varietals, origins, and specialized styles. "People are looking for more intense flavor, more bitterness, less sugar. Dark chocolate is growing."

It's no secret that in the past, European chocolate met a different standard than most American-made confection. European makers and consumers grew aware before we did that it matters what kinds of cocoa beans go into the product, and where they were grown (short of revealing 'formulas, European chocolate labels often name the types and origins of the cocoa beans). But noted Seattle chocolatier Fran Bigelow observes that Americans' taste for chocolate has gotten more sophisticated with international travel. Our interest has attracted artisans right here to ply their skills in chocolate factories, and they are spilling the beans, so to speak - dispensing more information on labels about their premium chocolates.

And it all starts with the cocoa beans, adds Bigelow. Follow their trek from pod to chocolate on page 126.

Just for the record, chocolate doesn't mean just milk chocolate anymore. Medrich, Schmidt, and Bigelow - and more and more Americans - prefer dark, rich chocolate for eating and cooking. Simple recipes, such as the following, show off a chocolate best. You can use bittersweet or semisweet, the latter of which is usually sweeter, although the FDA definition is the same for both. Keep in mind that chocolate, like butter, absorbs odors and flavors readily, so wrap it well and store in a cool, dry place.

Chocolate Pots de Creme

Prep and cook time: About 8 minutes, plus 30 to 45 minutes to chill

Notes: If making ahead, cover and chill up to 1 day. For creamiest texture, let desserts stand at room temperature about 30 minutes before eating. Serve topped with small spoonfuls of sweetened, softly whipped cream and more finely chopped chocolate.

Makes: 4 or 5 servings

6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped (about 1 cup) 1 large egg 3/4 cup whipping cream

1. In a food processor or blender, whirl chocolate until finely chopped. Pour into a bowl.

2. Add the egg to the food processor or blender.

3. In a 2-cup glass measure, heat whipping cream in a microwave oven at full power (100%) until cream boils, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes.

4. With processor or blender on high speed, add boiling cream to egg. Check temperature of mixture with an instant-read thermometer; if below 160 [degrees], pour mixture back into glass measure and reheat in microwave oven at full power just until it reaches 160 [degrees], stirring and checking at 15-second intervals.

5. Combine hot cream mixture and chopped chocolate in blender or processor; whirl until smooth, about 1 minute.

6. Pour chocolate mixture into 4 or 5 ramekins (1/2-cup size). Chill until softly set, 30 to 45 minutes.

Per serving: 286 cal., 76% (216 cal.) from fat; 4.4 g protein; 24 g fat (14 g sat.); 20 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 25 mg sodium; 82 mg chol.

Chocolate Truffle Bites

Prep and cook time: About 6 minutes, plus chilling

Notes: If making ahead, store airtight up to 1 week in the refrigerator or 1 month in the freezer.

Makes: About 32 pieces

6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped (about 1 cup) 6 tablespoons whipping cream 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa

1. Combine chocolate and cream in a microwave-safe container. Heat in a microwave oven at 50 percent power, stirring twice, until chocolate is soft, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes total. Remove from oven and stir until mixture is smooth.

2. Using plastic wrap, smoothly line the bottom and at least 1 inch up the sides of a 4- by 8-inch loaf pan.

3. Pour chocolate mixture into pan. Chill up to 1 hour or freeze up to 30 minutes until firm when pressed.

4. Sprinkle cocoa over a sheet of waxed paper on a cutting board. Lift chocolate slab out of pan and turn over onto cocoa; peel off plastic wrap.

5. With a knife, immediately cut slab into 3/4-inch squares (some chocolates are too brittle to cut neatly; irregular pieces are fine).

6. Lift edges of waxed paper and tilt back an.d forth to completely coat chocolate pieces with cocoa. Lift truffles, shake off excess cocoa, and put truffles on a serving dish.

7. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Per piece: 35 cal., 71% (25 cal.) from fat; 0.5 g protein; 2.8 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 3.2 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 1 mg sodium; 3.1 mg chol.

Chocolate Sauce

Prep and cook time: About 5 minutes

Notes: Serve warm or cool over anything that goes with chocolate, or use as a dip for strawberries.