Those tasty kales

Sunset, August, 1998 by Renee Shepherd

Morton sent me a packet of Wild Garden Kale mix seed, which I planted in my garden in early fall. Soon, the seeds produced fast-growing plants with 18- to 24-inch leaves in a gorgeous palette of fall hues - deep green, lustrous blue-green, vibrant burgundy, and rich purple-red. The leaves ranged from fiat to wavy, tightly curled and softly savoyed to ruffle-edged. As cool weather came on, their colors intensified, so the plants lit up the garden as the days grew shorter.

Now, Wild Garden Kale mix is a staple in my garden. I toss young leaves into salads and stir-fries, and saute, braise, and steam them. I add the mature leaves to my "simple soup" - a delicious blend of sauteed onions and garlic, chicken stock, rice or potatoes, and chunks of my favorite lean sausage. I've also discovered a few other tasty ways to use wild kale.

WILTED GREENS PASTA. Add clean kale leaves to boiling pasta during the last 30 seconds of cooking, or just before draining the pasta, to set their color and tenderize them slightly. Then drain the pasta and kale and dress with a fruity olive oil, shaved hard cheese, and freshly ground pepper.

BRAISED OR STEAMED GREENS. Cook the kale leaves in a little broth or white wine. To serve, add a little olive oil or butter and sprinkle with fresh lemon juice.

STIR-FRIED KALE. Stir-fry the greens with fresh ginger and garlic. To serve, sprinkle with a little sesame oil and oyster sauce (available in the Asian section of most supermarkets or in Asian grocery stores).

Renee's kale tips

BUY SEEDS of Wild Garden Kale mix by mail from Wild Garden Seed, Box 1509, Philomath, OR 97370 (send a self-addressed, stamped envelope with $2 per packet), or order from Shepherd's Garden Seeds, 30 Irene St., Torrington, CT 06790; (860) 482-3638 (free catalog).

SOW SEEDS 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart in rows 18 inches apart in rich, well-drained garden soil in late summer or early fall. Containers of seed starting mix are fine, too; transplant into garden beds when seedlings have at least one set of true leaves.

KEEP THE SEEDBED evenly moist until seeds germinate (about one week to 10 days).

THIN OR TRANSPLANT SEEDLINGS to 8 to 1 2 inches apart after plants are established.

START HARVESTING LEAVES after plants have at least eight leaves. My "cut-and-come-again" method: pick the tenderest leaves from the center whorls, leaving the outer leaves to feed the plants.