California's black utopia - Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park

Sunset, March, 1988

California's black utopia Born a slave in Kentucky, sold once because he tried to learn to read, Allen Allensworth escaped to a better life. In 1908, after years in the Army, he came to a spot about 40 miles north of Bakersfield and founded a town. It was the state's first--and only--town settled and governed entirely by blacks. It is now Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park, a fascinating detour from State Highway 99. Three buildings--a library and two private homes--have been restored this past year. Fifteen new campsites opened last spring.

In early days, good soil and plentiful wells made the town a promising utopia. But Allensworth died in 1914, the water table dropped, and a hoped-for technical school project fell through. The town declined. By the 1960s, few residents remained; the place was virtually a ghost town.

Since the town was made a state park, in 1976, seven buildings have been restored to appear as they did in 1912. Most recently restored are the Tulare County Free Library and the two homes, one with its smokehouse and outhouse. You can wander among the buildings every day, but you can get inside (where you'll find feather beds, kitchen utensils, and old photographs) only on weekends.

The campsites ($10 per night) have rest rooms and water, and rarely fill. The park is open 10 to 5 daily. From Bakersfield, take State 99 north 35 miles to Earlimart. Go west about 7 miles on Tulare County Road J22, then south a mile on State 43 to the park.