What gives the tang to these sweets? Goat's milk - recipes

Sunset, March, 1988

What gives the tang to these sweets? Goat's milk Goat's milk has long had an appreciative, if rather limited, audience. But with the increasing popularity of goat cheeses--due largely to their fresh, sharp flavor from the milk--it's appropriate to investigate other ways to capture this tang.

Canned evaporated goat's milk, now widely available in markets (next to the canned milk), is a good place to start. In sweets, particularly, the milk's tartnes proves refreshing. One classic use is in the Mexican confection cajeta (kah-hay-tah), a thick, liquid caramel made of goat's milk boiled with sugar. Eat by itself or dip dried fruit or cookies into it.

Norway's famous brown cheese or gjetost (goat's and cow's milk) is the surprise addition in caramels. Tasters were mystified, then intrigued by the flavor.

Cajeta 1 can (12-1/2 oZ.) evaporated goat's milk 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons butter or margarine

In a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine milk, sugar, and butter. Bring to a boil over high heat. Stir often for the first 10 minutes, then stir constantly (mixture scorches easily) as cajeta darkens to a medium caramel color and thickens but still flows readily from spoon, about 20 minutes total. Cajeta thickens as it cools.

Serve warm or cool in tiny bowls. To store, cover airtight and chill up to 3 months. To reheat in nonmetal container in a microwave oven, cook on full power (100 percent) until warm, 1 to 2 minutes; stir and serve. Makes about 1 cup; allow 3 tablespoons for a serving.

Gjetost Caramels 1 can (12-1/2 oZ.) evaporated goat's milk 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine, cut into pieces 1 package (8.8 oZ.) gjetost cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 3 cups miniature marshmallows 1/2 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 cup chopped almonds

In a 5- to 6-quart pan, stir together milk, sugar, and butter. Over medium-high heat, stir constantly until mixture reaches 230[deg.] on a thermometer, about 25 minutes. Remove at once from heat and add cheese, marshmallows, vanilla, and nuts; stir until cheese and marshmallows are melted.

Pour into a buttered 8- or 9-inch-square pan. Chill until firm, about 1 hour. Cut into 1- to 1-1/2-inch squares; wrap each in plastic wrap. Serve, or chill up to 1 month. Makes about 3 dozen pieces.