As with other cults, chiliheads tend to be a bit fanatical - includes recipes

Sunset, March, 1988

As with other cults, chiliheads tend to be a bit fanatical Regional food specialties give rise to a kind of fanaticism based on the concept of a supreme barbecue sauce, chowder, or chili recipe. As with cults, the disciples tend toward heretical opinions and sectarianism.

Some chili fanciers (known in their own vernacular as chiliheads) blanch at the thought of beans in the bowl; others groan at the prospect of ground (as opposed to cubed) beef. Some curl their lips at the suggestion of using prepared chili powder, just as clam chowder purists (chowderheads, to some) vehemently reject the idea of celery in Boston chowder.

Chefs of the West, on the other hand, realize that in a pluralistic society there must be room for diversity. In this spirit of tolerance, we welcome the unorthodox efforts of Edward Tuit--who gives us not only beans, ground beef, and chili powder but throws in pork, green chilies, and white wine.

The result is spicy but not fiery.

Edward's chili 1 pound ground lean beef 1/2 pound chorizo sausage, casings removed (optional) 1 pound lean boneless pork shoulder or butt, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 2 medium-size firm-ripe tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped 1 can (15 oz.) tomato sacue 1 can (about 1 lb.) kidney beans 1 can (7 oz.) diced green chilies 2 medium-size onions, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 beef bouillon cubes 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 teaspoon cumin seed Salt and pepper 1 medium-size red onion, chopped About 2 cups (8 oz.) shredded sharp cheddar cheese

In a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium heat, crumble ground beef and chorizo with a spoon. Stir often until meats are well browned, 10 to 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, lift out meats and set aside. Discard all but 1 tablespoon of the drippings, the add pork to pan and cook until browned on all sides.

Return beef and chorizo mixture to pan, then stir in tomatoes, tomato sauce, kidney beans and their liquid, chilies, the 2 chopped onions, garlic, wine, bouillon cubes, chili powder, and cumin. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; cover and simmer until pork is very tender when pierced, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Stir as needed to prevent scorching. Skim and discard fat, season to taste with salt and pepper, then ladle into individual bowls.

Offer red opinion and cheese to add to individual portions. Makes about 8 cups, 6 to 8 servings. Santa Monica, Calif.

Dessert wines--maderia, port, sweet sherry--alter the flavor of cream-based meat sauces in a remarkable way: when heated sufficiently, the sugar in the wine caramelizes and blends with the cream (and butter or other fat), loses its sweetness, and leaves behind a flavor best described as indescribable, although toast and caramel play a part in it.

Such a sauce usually accompanies fowl, pork, or veal. But Michael Palumbo finds that Italian sausage, mild or hot, does not overpower it, and that pasta is the perfect vehicle for the resulting blend.

Pasta with Sausage, Madeira,

and Cream 1 pound mild or hot Italian sausage, casings removed 1/4 pound mushrooms, sliced 2 large cloves garlic, minced or pressed 1/4 cup madeira or dry sherry 1 cup whipping cream 1 teaspoon white pepper 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg About 12 ounces (about 4 3/4 cups) dry spinach pasta twists Freshly grated parmesan cheese

In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, crumble sausage and stir often until meat is well browned, 10 to 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, lift out sausage and set it aside. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the drippings.

Add mushroom and garlic to pan; cook, stirring often, until mushrooms are golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add madeira, scraping brown bits free from pan. Add sausage, cream, pepper, and nutmeg. Boil on high heat until the sauce is slightly thickened and large, shiny bubbles form, 1 to 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring 3 quartz water to boil in a 5- to 6-quart pan on high heat. Add pasta and cook, uncovered, until tender to bite, about 10 minutes. Drain and pour into a bowl; top with sausage sauce and mix well. Offer cheese to spoon over individual portions. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Foster city, Clif.

Perhaps you have witnessed a pizza commercial that bases its appeal on abbondanza--abundance or lavishness. Compared with Gerald Knight's Ricotta Torta Milanese, any pizza would look like a prioner's bread and water. The crust (if you can call anything so refined a crust) is puff pastry; inside are ham, two cheeses, eggs, roast peppers, spinach, Brussels sprouts, onion, and seasonings.

Does all this sound like luxury? Keep in mind George Ade's description of down-on-the-farm dining: "There were no luxuries then; anything that could be et was a necessity."

Ricotta Torta Milanese 1 carton (15 oz., about 2 cups) ricotta cheese 1 tablespoon dry Italian herb seasoning or 2 teaspoons dry basil leaves and 1 teaspoon dry oregano leaves 1 teaspoon ground sage 4 large eggs 2 packages (10 oz. each) frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry 1/4 teaspoon pepper 2 packages (17 1/4 oz. each) frozen puff pastry dough, thawed according to package directions 1 pound thinly sliced cooked ham 1 jar (7 oz.) roasted red peppers, drained and cut into strips 1 medium-size onion, very thinly sliced 2-1/2 cups (about 3/4 lb.) cold cooked Brussels sprouts, or 1 package (10 oz.) frozen Brussels sprouts, thawed 1 cup (4 oz.) shredded Swiss cheese