Sidewalk dining on a sunny spring day in West Hollywood - California - directory

You don't need to be in Europe to enjoy European-style sidewalk cafes. West Hollywood has a handful of such spots along one stretch of Sunset Boulevard. And neighboring boutiques attract a clientele that rivals Rodeo Drive's. A sunny spring day is a good time to stake out a seat and savor the passing show.

Couples coo across bread baskets, a refined beauty strokes her lap dog between nibbles of pasta, and young mothers chat as their babies nap in strollers.

Lenore Breslauer, owner of Pasta, Etc., says, "It reminds me of Rome's Via Veneto"-a street long famous for its paparazzi-pleasing eateries. Never mind that she's a New Yorker, that a Wisconsinite owns Tutto Italia, an Italian just reopened Le Petit Four, and an L. A. lawyer with a yen for gourmet Chinese cuisine started Chin Chin.

From the Hollywood Freeway (U.S. 101), exit at Sunset and go 3 miles west to the 8600 block. Park in the large lot behind buildings on the south side. Expect a 10minute wait for lunch on busy weekdays and weekends; evenings are slower. Most cafes offer food to go and catering services. (All area codes are 213.)

Chin Chin 8618 is open 11 to 11 Sundays through Thursdays, to midnight Fridays and Saturdays; 652-1818. Besides its sidewalk tables, this two-tier eatery has 50 seats upstairs and a take-out counter downstairs. Menu prices run $3 to $6 for dim sum, salads, pancakes, noodles, and daily specials. Beer and wine are served inside only.

Pasta, Etc. (8650) is open 9 A.M. to 11 PM. daily except Sundays; 854-0094. It began as a take-out, but regulars requested seats, which now number 40 18 of them outside. You can choose unusual items such as Sichuan tortellini. Meals average $8 to $10; beer and wine are served.

Cravings (8653) is open 8 A.M. to 11 PM. daily except 9 to 9 Sundays (brunch until 5); 652-6104. American and Italian dishes run $7 to $20; beer and wine are served. The cafe seats 120, indoors and out. A pianist takes requests 7 to 11:30 PM. Tuesdays through Saturdays.

Le Petit Four (8654) is open 8 A.M. to midnight daily except 9 to 5 Sundays for brunch; 652-3863. Among the menu items are warm goat cheese salad, quiche, pizza, and low-calorie specials. Prices run $8 to $16; beer and wine are offered.

Tutto Italia (8657) is open 10 to 7 daily except Sundays; 659-0644. Under the same ownership as Cravings, Tutto Italia specializes in Italian take-out. Or order at the counter, then sit outside. Combination plates cost $10 to $12.