Looking for Sierra gold - autumn tour starts south of Tahoe

Take it slow. Catch the low autumn light setting the central Sierra aglow as you cruise lightly used roads. Flick a fishing line into a fork of the Carson River. Pitch a tent under white-barked boughs. Row across an alpine lake trimmed with gold. Smell the tang of decomposing leaves in the crisp air as you walk a forest trail.

For a few weeks in autumn (usually late September through mid-October), when blue-sky days shorten and night temperatures dip below freezing, patches of fall color streak the valleys and cap the high mountain passes near Lake Tahoe. Aspen thrive here, splashing gold from elevations of about 6,000 feet to the tree line (about 9,500 feet)-and offering a colorful reason to visit the Sierra one more time this year before snow falls.

Some of the most spectacular stretches of quaking aspen grow along State Highway 89, less than an hour's drive south of Tahoe, and along adjoining state highways 88 and 4. At other times of the year, most people pass quickly through this land of sweeping meadows, 10,000-foot peaks, and rivers, hurrying on to the lake or, in winter, nearby Kirkwood ski resort.

Our autumn tour encourages you to linger. Start on State 89 where it heads southeast from U.S. 50, about 5 miles south of the town of South Lake Tahoe.

Heading east into the color

Climbing gently out of the Tahoe Basin on State 89, you see the first aspens set off by dark conifers. Notice the variation: one grove may be pale yellow, another ablaze

in gold or, occasionally, red. For more on why aspen turn color, see page 25.)

About 5 miles from U.S. 50, the road loops down into the mile-wide Hope Valley (elevation 7,180 feet), so named by optimistic pioneers in the mid-1800s.

Since 1987, some 10,000 acres in or near the valley have been transferred from private to public ownership; another 15,000 are slated for acquisition by 1991. But acquiring remaining parcels-and removing the risk of development-isn't guaranteed, notes Scott Ferguson of the San Francisco-based Trust for Public Lands, which is managing the transfer. Both state and federal funds must be earmarked for buying these private lands.

But visitors can already explore just about everything bordering State 89; simply

heed any "no trespassing" signs, and close gates (some range cattle remain). There's unlimited access along the West Fork

Carson River as it winds through granite boulders and over gravel bars-perfect trout territory.

In the heart of the valley, State 89 joins 88. Turn either way for activities.

Turn right, for lakes and hikes ...

State 88 heads southwest through the valley. Climb over Carson Pass (elevation 8,573 feet), the spot where Kit Carson blazed a trail in 1844. About a mile from the pass, take the signed turnoff to Woods Lake for picnicking, fishing, and campsites tucked into a granite cirque.

Caples Lake reservoir lies just beyond Woods Lake. There's a Forest Service campground flanked by Caples Lake Resort, open until mid-October. Cabins ($60 to $1 1 0) sleep two to seven; lodge rooms cost $30 to $45. Boats are also for rent. Big windows frame views in the good restaurant here (dinner only; reservations advised). Write or call the resort, Box 8, Kirkwood, Calif. 95646; (209) 258-8888. Next, stretch your legs on the Lake Margaret Trail, a mostly flat out-and-back walk (2 1/2 miles) past creeks and beaver ponds to towering aspen and the lake. Trailhead is on the right, 0.2 mile beyond the Caples Lake spillway.

You can get a hamburger at Kirkwood Inn, open from 6:30 A.M. to 9 Pm. daily. It's just ahead on the right.

A half-mile farther is the turnoff for Kirkwood Resort, unbusy and relaxed this time of year. Stretch out in deluxe condominiums at off-season rates ($55 for a studio to $120 for two bedrooms). The rental office staff can suggest hikes to lakes and fall color in the nearby Mokelumne Wilderness. Write to the resort,

Kirkwood 95646, or call (209) 258-6000. Beyond Kirkwood, you pass more lakes and low-key resorts. Eventually, State 88 brings you to Jackson, 63 miles southwest.

... or turn left and tap into hot springs and history

By turning left (east) on State 88, you travel into the gorge cut by the West Fork Carson River, passing spectacular aspen and tall, spreading cottonwoods.

Some of the prettiest aspen surround Sorensen's, a mile ahead. Rates are $45 to $115 (24 cabins hold two to eight people); book well in advance. Or stop by to enjoy a meal (lunch daily, dinner nightly except Wednesdays), rent a mountain bike, take a fly-fishing lesson, join a guided bike, or peruse a selection of books. For prices for activities, write or call the resort, Hope Valley 96120; ?16) 694-2203.

Another half-mile ahead is Hope Valley Resort, a private campground beside the river. Its six tent sites cost $3 each; 18 trailer hookups are $18 each. Write to the resort, 14655 Highway 88, Hope Valley 96120, or call (916) 694-2292.

The highway now slips into rugged Woodfords Canyon. A yellow strip of aspen, cottonwood, and willow follows the river. At the bottom of the gorge, trees stop-a fire ravaged the area in 1987.