Turkey steps in for veal in an Italian classic

Sunset, Sept, 1991

Hot from the grill, boneless turkey breast slices wrapped around a savory filling make a handsome entree that's ideal for warm-weather dining. They are a lower-fat version of a traditional pan-sauteed Italian veal dish called saltimbocca.

These two recipes for turkey rolls offer a choice of fillings. One features elements of a classic club sandwich, the other a robust combination of shiitake mushrooms, dried tomatoes, and cheese. The rolls can be assembled a day ahead, then take only minutes to cook on the grill.

Grilled Turkey Club with

Tomato Chutney

8 boned, skinned turkey breast slices or cutlets (each 2 to 3 oz. and about 3/8 inch thick), rinsed and patted dry 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon coarse-grain Dijon mustard 2 cups shredded romaine lettuce Tomato chutney (recipe follows) 16 thin slices pancetta or 8 slices bacon (6 to 7 oz. total)

With a flat mallet, pound each turkey slice between sheets of plastic wrap until 1/8 inch thick. Peel off and discard wrap.

Mix mayonnaise and mustard. Spread an equal amount of mayonnaise mixture evenly over each turkey slice. Mound 1/8 of the lettuce in the center of each piece; top with 1 tablespoon of chutney. Roll to enclose filling. Wrap 2 slices of pancetta (or 1 slice of bacon) around each roll. If made ahead, cover and chill up until next day.

Place rolls on a greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Cook, turning often to brown evenly, until meat is white in center of thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 11 minutes. Transfer rolls to plates. Offer remaining chutney to add to taste. Serves 6 to 8.

Per serving: 151 cal.; 16 g protein; 6.7 g fat (1.7 g sat.); 6.4 g carbo.; 212 mg sodium; 42 mg chol.

Tomato chutney. In a 2- to 3-quart pan over high heat, combine 1 1/2 pounds (about 9 large) cored, chopped Roma-type tomatoes; 2/3 cup minced shallots; 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger; 2/3 cup sugar; 1/3 cup cider vinegar; and 1/4 teaspoon crushed dry hot red chilies. Boil, uncovered and stirring often, unitl reduced to 2 cups, 45 to 55 minutes. Cool. Use, or cover and chill up to 3 weeks. Makes 2 cups.

Per tablespoon: 23 cal.; 0.3 g protein; 0 g fat (0 g sat.); 5.8 g carbo.; 2.1 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Grilled Turkey Rolls with

Herbed Shiitake-Cheese Filling

1/2 pound fresh shiitake or common mushrooms, rinsed and drained 5 teaspoons oil drained from oil-packed dried tomatoes and 2 tablespoons minced drained tomatoes 1 clove garlic, minced or pressed 8 boned, skinned turkey breast slices or cutlets (each 2 to 3 oz. and about 3/8 inch thick), rinsed and patted dry 1/2 pound fontina cheese, cut into 1/4-inch-thick sticks 16 large fresh or 1 1/2 teaspoons dry sage leaves 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh or 1 1/2 teaspoons dry thyme leaves 1/2 cup grated asiago cheese

Cut 4 mushrooms in half; coarsley chop remainder. In an 8- to 10-inch frying pan on medium-high heat, stir 2 teaspoons oil and mushroom halves until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes; remove from pan and set aside. Add remaining oil to pan with chopped mushrooms, tomatoes, and garlic. Stir often until mushrooms begin to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool.

With a flat mallet, pound each turkey slice between sheets of plastic wrap until 1/8 inch thick. Peel off and discard wrap.

Lay 1/8 of the fontina cheese in center of each turkey slice; top equally with the mushroom mixture, sage, minced thyme, and asiago. Roll to enclose. If made ahead, cover and chill up until next day.

Place turkey rolls on a greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Cook, turning often to brown evenly, until meat is white in center of thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 11 minutes. Transfer rolls to plates and garnish with the reserved mushroom halves. Serves 6 to 8.

Per serving: 223 cal.; 24 g protein; 13 g fat (7 g sat.); 2.7 g carbo.; 461 mg sodium; 73 mg chol.