Sampling Sonoma County's bounty - California

Sunset, Sept, 1993 by Peter Fish

Two picnic tours help you find the area's best bread, cheese, produce, and wine

AUTUMN TASTED sweet as cider the morning we sat down to talk apples with Darrel Hurst. Hurst has been growing them at his Twin Hill Ranch, near Sebastopol, for 51 years. Today, he coaxes some 40 varieties out of Twin Hill's 200 acres, from the Gravensteins that made Sebastopol famous to some newcomers he hopes will help him give Washington state a run for its money. "We really think we can grow a better Braeburn and Fuji here," he told us.

Meeting people like Darrel Hurst is one of the pleasures of touring Sonoma County's rolling farm country. Not only can you load your picnic basket with choice local foodstuffs, but you can chew the fat (or, in this case, the Gravensteins) with the people who produce them.

Sonoma's agricultural bounty is unusually accessible, thanks in large part to the work of the Sonoma County Agricultural Marketing Program (SCAMP) and Sonoma County Farm Trails. To take advantage of the profusion, especially impressive in September, we've devised two tours. One centers around the town of Sonoma, the other winds from Rohnert Park east through Sebastopol and Forestville to the Russian River.

Of course, our itineraries are just suggestions. To devise your own equally delectable picnic pilgrimage, you'll need one essential guide: the Sonoma County Farm Trails map, which lists growers, picnic sites, and farmers' markets. It's available, free, at the Sonoma County Wine and Visitors Center and at all county chambers of commerce. Or send a self-addressed, stamped (52 cents) business-size envelope to Sonoma County Farm Trails, Box 6032, Santa Rosa 95406. Also free at the visitor center is Select Sonoma County Products, which lists everything from farm stands to wineries.

Unless noted, all the stops are open weekends from around 10 to 5. All area codes are 707.

ON THE PLAZA

One visit to Sonoma Plaza and you'll find yourself wishing that more California towns (like yours, perhaps?) had a central square as pleasant and history laden as this one. Pull yourself up a patch of lawn, and you can admire a mission revival city hall, the 160-year-old Swiss Hotel, and the 1823 Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma.

The plaza is, in short, a perfect site for a picnic, and you can gather all the essential victuals--all from Sonoma County--within a short walk.

What makes a classic picnic? Well, we're traditionalists: we go for bread and cheese, maybe some ham or turkey, fruit, and wine. All can be easily gathered near the plaza. For your daily bread, try the sourdough from Sonoma French Bakery, 470 First Street E., on the plaza's east side; 996-2691. For ham, turkey, and smoked sausage, head to Sonoma Sausage Factory, 453 First; 938-8200. On the north side of the plaza, Sonoma Cheese Factory, 2 Spain Street (996-1931), produces jack cheese in a number of permutations and sells just about everything else (which accounts for the large weekend crowds). Around the corner, at 315 Second Street E., Vella Cheese Company of California, Inc. (938-3232), is smaller, but we think its jack is as good as the Factory's.

Conveniently enough, The Patch, at 320 Second (939-8125), lies across the street from Vella and offers fresh-picked fruits and vegetables. And you'll want some wine: both Wine Exchange of Sonoma, at 452 First E. (938-1794), and Sonoma Wine Shop, at 412 First (996-1230), have good selections of vintages from many of the county's 185 wineries.

Finally, here's an option if you prefer to arrive in Sonoma with picnic-already-in-basket. On your way into town, stop at Angelo's Wine Country Deli. The self-styled King of Jerky, Angelo Ibleto also produces 18 varieties of sausages, most of which have one ingredient in common: garlic. ("I'm a garlic freak," the Genoa native explained to us. "If you like garlic, there's never enough.") His sausage sandwiches provide a good start for any outdoor fete. Angelo's is at 23400 Arnold Drive; 938-3688.

ON THE ROAD

Our second tour begins in Rohnert Park, at the estimable new Sonoma County Wine and Visitors Center. At the 13,000-square-foot facility, which is sponsored by Sonoma County Wineries Association, you can map out your route on one of its computer terminals. The center also sells a good selection of county wines, has its own demonstration winery, and sponsors cooking classes. From U.S. Highway 101, take Golf Course Drive east to 5000 Roberts Lake Road; 586-3795.

Next, head west toward Gravenstein Highway (State 116). Scattered across the hills are dozens of places for purchasing and picnicking: we list some of our favorites.

We'll start with cheese. Joe Matos Cheese Factory--an industrial-strength name for a small family farm--produces pungent St. George cheese similar to that made in the Matos family's native Azores. It's at 3669 Llano Road, Santa Rosa; 584-5283.

Apples remain an abundant crop around Sebastopol; Darrel Hurst's Twin Hill Ranch, 1689 Pleasant Hill Road (823-2815; closed Sundays), is just one of the orchards where you can savor them. Gravensteins peak in August, but they're still available this month. At their prime in September are Jonathans, Galas, and Golden Delicious. Twin Hill also sells cider, apple breads, and apple pies. And it has a pleasant picnic area.