All-star tailgates: big on flavor - and tradition - recipes - includes related article on college football - Tailgate Traditions

Sunset, Sept, 1993 by Christine Weber Hale, Bill Crosby, Peter Fish

COLLEGE FOOTBALL IS about tradition, from The Axe to the Apple Cup, from a cross-state rivalry that preceded statehood to shared remembrances of hallowed quarterbacks, coaches, games, and plays.

Part of that tradition is tailgating. It's around bountiful tailgate spreads outside the West's college stadiums that the tales of yesterday's heroes live on and the flames of excitement over today's heroes are fanned like briquets on the hibachi. It's oral tradition: beer, wine, soft drinks, and a regional, seasonal, movable feast. It's Sixkiller and salmon, Brodie and beef, Curly Culp and Chili-Cheese Triangles. It's college football heaven.

Here, we share nine recipes inspired by some of the most ardent tailgaters in the West. These offerings are as likely to win fans among your family and friends as they have among the Cardinal, Husky, and Sun Devil fans who shared them with us.

Cardinal tradition: garlic steak barbecue down on The Farm

Rob Christopher's family grows garlic around Gilroy, California. In fact, they grow more fresh garlic than any other grower in the United States. After Rob (pictured at left) went off to Stanford University in 1972, his dad, Don, decided he'd host an annual tailgate party: for The Big Game versus Cal, when it's played at Stanford, and in alternate years, before the USC game.

But this is no ordinary pregame party, unless you consider a country-folk band, 12 running feet of barbecue grills, and upward of 400 guests typical. Fans who have been lucky enough to sample the Christophers' signature sandwich, featuring the stinking rose, of course, hold it in the same regard they afford John Elway, Jim Plunkett, and Frankie Albert.

Christopher Ranch Garlic Steak Sandwiches

2 large (about 1 lb. total) green bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into thin strips

2 large (about 1 lb. total) red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into thin strips

1 large (about 1/2-lb.) onion, coarsely chopped

6 cloves garlic, minced

Garlic butter (recipe follows)

1 flank steak, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds

8 crusty sandwich rolls (each about 6 in. long)

In a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat, combine peppers, onion, garlic, and 2 tablespoons garlic butter. Stir often until vegetables are browned and onions taste sweet, about 30 minutes; keep warm.

Lay flank steak on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds). Turn meat to brown evenly until it reaches desired doneness; allow 10 to 14 minutes total for rare.

Meanwhile, cut rolls in half lengthwise and brush cut sides with remaining garlic butter. Lay rolls, buttered side down, on grill, and toast until golden brown, about 1 minute.

On a board, slice steak thinly across the grain. Fill rolls equally with sliced meat, any juices, and the pepper-garlic mixture. Makes 8.

Per sandwich: 350 cal. (31 percent from fat); 20 g protein; 12 g fat (5.1 g sat.); 40 g carbo.; 436 mg sodium; 43 mg chol.

Garlic butter. Mash together 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine, at room temperature, and 4 cloves minced garlic. If making ahead, cover airtight and chill up to 1 day.

Per tablespoon: 105 cal. (100 percent from fat); 0.2 g protein; 12 g fat (7.2 g sat.); 0.7 g carbo.; 118 mg sodium; 31 mg chol.

Grilled Ratatouille-Cheese Sandwiches

As an alternative to beef, here's a meatless sandwich that's surprisingly hearty. Thread vegetables onto metal skewers at home and carry to your outing to grill. You'll need six to eight skewers, each about 14 inches long.

1 medium-size (about 1 lb.) eggplant, stem trimmed, cut into 1-inch chunks

2 medium-size (2/3 lb. total) zucchini, ends trimmed, each cut diagonally into 8 equal slices

2 large (about 1 lb. total) red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1 large clove garlic, minced or pressed

1/3 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh or 2 teaspoons dried basil leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh or 1 teaspoon dried marjoram leaves

6 medium-size (1 lb. total) Roma-type tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise

1 long loaf (1 lb.) flat Italian bread (ciabatta) or sourdough bread

3 cups (3/4 lb.) shredded fontina cheese

Fresh basil sprigs (optional)

Thread eggplant, zucchini, and bell pepper pieces separately onto skewers. Combine garlic, oil, lemon juice, chopped basil, and marjoram. Lightly brush vegetables and tomatoes with some of the oil mixture. If making ahead, place skewers and tomatoes in a 10- by 15-inch pan, wrap airtight, and chill up to 6 hours. Pour remaining oil mixture into a leak-proof container and hold at room temperature up to 6 hours.

In a barbecue with a lid, place skewers on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Cook 12 minutes, turning to brown evenly. Place tomatoes, skin down, on grill. Turn skewers, as needed, until all vegetables are very tender when pressed, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer vegetables to a platter; remove skewers.

Meanwhile, cut bread diagonally into 3 equal pieces, then split each piece horizontally. If needed, trim crust so bread sits steady. Brush cut sides with remaining oil mixture. Place bread, cut side down, on grill until toasted, about 3 minutes. Off the grill, top toasted sides equally with cheese, then vegetables.