Kauai off-road

Sunset, Sept, 1994 by Jeff Phillips

Ecology-oriented mountain bike tours offer easy riding and dramatic overlooks

THERE'S A REASON WE CALL IT the Garden Isle," says Rick Haviland as our tour group pedals through the deep forests of Kokee State Park high above Kauai's northwest shore. Just two years after winds from Hurricane Iniki defoliated muc of the island, towering eucalyptus and pine trees in this mountainside park are lush with new green leaves. And Haviland, co-owner of Outfitters Kauai, is once again offering ecology-oriented mountain bike tours on park fire roads.

His 16-mile tour is the only guided mountain bike trip licensed to operate off paved roads in any of Hawaii's state parks. The route is a not-too-strenuous, mostly downhill run that nearly anybody who's comfortable on a geared bicycle can manage. The fire roads are graded, and the only real climb (a steep, 10-minute sweat breaker even in your lowest gear) is optional. Along the route, Haviland or one of his guides will stop to identify native plants or to talk about the impact of exotics in the lush surrounding forest. You aren't likely t see many birds, but Haviland can identify many warblings from the canopy.

Bicyclists meet at 9 A.M. at the Puu Ka Pele overlook on the edge of 3,567-foot-deep Waimea Canyon, a good 1 1/2-hour drive from Lihue. Here you're fitted with bike, helmet, gloves, and water bottle, and briefed on how to ride safely on the fire roads.

After a steep downhill, the trail flattens out, following the contour of the mountainside. The optional climb to view the island of Niihau actually feels good, and at a rest break for cold drinks you may be treated to songs from a half-dozen different birds, including the 'Anianiau, a small, green native Hawaiian honeycreeper.

The last 3 miles of the trip--a steep run dropping 1,500 feet down the crest of Polihale Ridge--is the most difficult part of the ride, with hands and forearms tiring from vibrating handle-bars and steady braking, and legs aching from the miles of crouching just above the jouncing bike seat. The reward is a hearty lunch and spectacular views over the serrated walls of canyons plunging 1,500 feet to the dunes at Polihale Beach on Kauai's west coast. The trip back up is in a four-wheel-drive sag wagon, which gets you back to your car by 3.

Cost of the guided tour, including all equipment and lunch, is $78 per person. Tours are offered year-round; call Outfitters Kauai at (808) 742-9667 for reservations or for information on bike rentals if you want to do it on your own.

Nonbikers can easily spend a day exploring park hiking trails, including a new boardwalk into the Alakai Swamp. Be prepared for cool weather and light, misty rain; some days a hot lunch at the park restaurant (open 9 to 4 daily) can really hit the spot. Serious hikers may want to get an early start by spending night in one of the park's 11 rustic housekeeping cabins (prices start at $35); for reservations, phone (808) 335-6061.

Vacation planners can get island lodging and activity updates by calling the Kauai Hot Line, (800) 262-1400.