The mushroom boom - includes recipes

Sunset, March, 1996 by Betsy Reynolds Bateson

You'll find a whole lot more than the traditional button in Western markets these days. Here's how to choose, store, and cook specialty varieties

Every day, from thousands of trays of soil at Monterey Mushrooms in Watsonville, California, portabella mushrooms begin their journey to restaurant kitchens and grocery store shelves. Not far away, Hazel Dell Mushrooms is packing shiitake and oyster varieties, also in tremendous demand across the country.

It's no accident that farms that produce these specialty mushrooms are proliferating. The West's coastal region provides perfect weather for growing the edible fungi. And, as more varieties become cultivated, demand for them is soaring. Although the white button still accounts for more than 90 percent of mushroom sales, production of relatives such as the crimini (Italian brown) and giant portabella (a mature crimini), and of oyster and shiitake varieties, is expanding rapidly.

Demand is also increasing for wild mushrooms in season, particularly morels, chanterelles, and porcini (cepes). Of course, you're likely to pay dearly for these scarce, exquisitely flavored beauties. And many cultivated varieties are pricey as well.

Keep in mind that terms such as specialty and exotic do not indicate wild mushrooms. They simply refer to mushrooms other than the common button variety. Those labeled wild, however, have been picked in the wild, even if the variety is usually cultivated.

Because wild mushrooms such as chanterelles, porcini, and morels are available only seasonally, you'll find them dried during much of the year. The cultivated shiitake is also available dried and, like wild mushrooms, lends rich flavor when rehydrated in soups, stocks, and sauces.

Recipes that showcase these mushrooms begin on page 124. Paul Bertolli, chef-owner at Oliveto Cafe and Restaurant in Oakland, created the melange, vinaigrette, and torte recipes.

Bertolli's Mushroom Melange

Cooking time: About 20 minutes

Prep time: About 15 minutes

Notes: This is good spooned over soft polenta or risotto. If you prefer, substitute 4 ounces assorted dried mushrooms (about 5 1/2 cups dried) for the 2 pounds fresh after soaking them for about 1 hour in 4 cups warm water. Add mushrooms with their clear soaking liquid to cooked shallots and prosciutto (step 3), cook 15 minutes over medium heat, and proceed to step 4.

Makes: About 4 cups; 8 servings

2 pounds (3 or 4 kinds) assorted mushrooms, such as chanterelle, crimini, morel, oyster, pompon, porcini, portabella, shiitake, and button

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup finely diced shallots

2 ounces (1/2 cup) prosciutto, finely diced

1/8 teaspoon each salt and pepper

1/2 cup each whipping cream and chicken broth

1/4 cup fresh white bread crumbs

1 1/2 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs, such as parsley, thyme, marjoram, and rosemary

1. Clean and prepare mushrooms (see directions below). Slice large mushrooms lengthwise 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick; leave smaller ones whole.

2. To a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, add oil, shallots, and prosciutto. Cook, stirring, until shallots are limp and tinged brown, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Add mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring, over high heat until all liquid released from mushrooms has evaporated, about 15 minutes.

4. Add cream and broth, and cook until reduced by half, about 5 minutes; mixture will be moist but not runny.

5. Add bread crumbs and herbs; stir just to mix. Serve cool, or use in Mushroom Torte (recipe on page 126).

Per 1/2 cup: 127 cal., 68% (86 cal.) from fat; 5.1 g protein; 9.6 g fat (3.7 g sat.); 7.3 g carbo.; 190 mg sodium; 22 mg chol.

Mushrooms Vinaigrette

Cooking time: About 30 minutes

Prep time: About 5 minutes

Notes: These tangy herbed mushrooms are perfect for salads, for topping toasted Italian country bread, or for serving alongside roast meats such as veal or pork.

Makes: About 2 cups

1 pound mushrooms, such as oyster, porcini, portabella, or small shiitake 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 sprigs (2 in. each) fresh rosemary 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1. Clean mushrooms (directions below). Leave shiitake and oyster mushrooms whole. Cut others lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices.

2. Fill a 6- to 8-quart pan with 1/2 inch water (about 3 cups); add a steamer basket. Over high heat, bring water to a boil. Fill basket with single layer of mushrooms; cover tightly, and steam until soft and tan-colored and reduced to about 3/4 of original size, 5 to 8 minutes; remove slices to bowl and keep warm. Repeat until all mushrooms have been steamed, then mix mushrooms with vinegar, salt, and pepper. Turn heat to high; reduce steaming liquid to 2 tablespoons, about 2 minutes, and add to mushrooms.

3. To a 1- to 2-quart pan over medium heat, add oil, rosemary, and garlic; let herbs sizzle 2 minutes (do not brown). Remove from heat; let cool.

4. In a clean 1-pint jar, layer mushroom slices with flavored oil, rosemary, and garlic. Let stand at least 30 minutes, or cover jar with lid and refrigerate up to 1 month. Use at room temperature.