The mushroom boom - includes recipes

Sunset, March, 1996 by Betsy Reynolds Bateson

RELATED ARTICLE: making the most of mushrooms

Because mushrooms are fragile and highly perishable, proper handling and care are critical.

To select: Choose blemish-free mushrooms with a fresh, smooth (unwrinkled), dry surface. Mushrooms that have a veil (the thin membrane under the cap) have a more delicate flavor when the veil is closed (if open, the flavor is richer). Mushrooms are usually at peak flavor just as the veil starts to open.

To store: Always refrigerate fresh mushrooms; never wash until ready to use. To prolong the storage of packaged mushrooms, remove plastic wrap, leave in tray or container, and wrap with paper towels (mushrooms stored in unventilated plastic will spoil). Store bulk (loose) mushrooms in a paper bag.

To clean and prepare: For cultivated mushrooms, use a soft brush or gently wipe with a damp cloth to remove dirt particles. Or place mushrooms in a colander, quickly rinse with cold water, and pat dry with paper towels.

For wild mushrooms (especially those with nooks and crannies, such as morels), fill a plastic bag with water, add mushrooms, and quickly swirl water around them to loosen dirt and any small insects. Let water drain from bag. (Never soak mushrooms; they'll absorb water.)

There's no need to peel fresh mushrooms; just trim off any bruised spots, tough or dirty ends or edges, and the stem end if it looks dry. Remove the tough stem of the shiitake, as well as the dry, fibrous end of the portabella stem.

For dried mushrooms, be sure to rinse or soak before adding to your recipe (they may contain dirt, small pebbles, or dried insects). Let any debris sink to the bottom of the cleaning water, then pour off the clear liquid for cooking.

RELATED ARTICLE: ordering specialty mushrooms

Malcolm Clark has been playing with mushrooms for more than a quarter of a century. His company, Gourmet Mushrooms, in Sebastopol, California, was the first to cultivate the shiitake in North America (in 1972). It continues to bring new mushroom breeds to consumers. Although many of Clark's mushrooms have been trademarked and are difficult to find at the retail level, you can order them by mail. For more information, write or call Gourmet Mushrooms, Box 391, Sebastopol, CA 95473; (707) 823-1743, fax (707) 823-1507. The Chef's Gourmet Mushroom Basket (2 pounds) costs about $46, The Connoisseur's Gourmet Mushroom Basket (4 pounds) about $68. You can also order dried mushrooms and kits for growing your own at home.