Succulent tomatoes, rich soups - includes recipes

Sunset, Sept, 1996 by Christine Weber Hale

A plump, fully ripe tomato just off the vine is a warm burst of earthy sweetness that is worlds apart from the anemic, rock-hard varieties that line supermarket bins during winter months.

Savor the incredible flavor now, before the season disappears. You don't need a lot of additional ingredients, as the following soups demonstrate so beautifully. It's easy to make extra batches of these recipes to enjoy throughout the winter. Just prepare the soup base and freeze, then add condiments shortly before serving.

If you find yourself with some slightly underripe tomatoes, don't refrigerate them: you'll stop the ripening process. Instead, keep the tomatoes in a single layer at room temperature until they are fully ripe.

Charred Tomato Soup with Corn and Pepper Relish

Prep and cook time: About 40 minutes

Notes: The mesquite chips impart a bold smoky flavor - omit them if you want a more subtle grilled taste.

Makes: 4 servings

1 cup mesquite smoking chips (optional) 2 ears of corn (about 1 3/4 lb.), husks and silks removed 1 orange or red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and halved lengthwise 2 1/2 pounds ripe Roma tomatoes, halved lengthwise 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups chicken broth 3 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion 1 tablespoon lime juice 1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh or 1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried sage leaves Sage sprigs (optional) Salt

1. If using mesquite chips, soak them in water to cover for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 hour.

2. Drain chips well. In a barbecue with a lid, scatter half the chips over a solid bed of very hot coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 1 second). For gas grills, turn on high, let heat 10 minutes, then put half the chips in a foil pan and set directly on flame in a corner of the grill.

3. Place corn and pepper halves on a well-oiled grill 4 to 6 inches above coals. Close lid, open vents, and cook until vegetables are lightly charred, 8 to 10 minutes; turn occasionally during cooking. Remove from grill and set aside.

4. Scatter remaining chips over the coals (or place in the foil pan). Brush cut sides of tomatoes with olive oil. Place tomatoes cut sides down on the grill. Close lid and cook until tomatoes are slightly charred, about 7 minutes. With a spatula, carefully remove tomatoes from grill. Reserve 4 nice-looking tomato halves.

5. Place remaining tomatoes in a blender with the chicken broth. Whirl until smooth; blend in batches if necessary. Transfer tomato mixture to a 4- to 5-quart pan. Stir often over medium heat until steaming, 8 to 10 minutes.

6. While soup heats, cut corn from cobs and coarsely chop pepper. Mix together corn kernels, pepper, green onion, lime juice, and sage leaves.

7. Divide tomato soup equally among 4 bowls. Spoon equal amounts of corn relish into the center of the soup. Lay 1 reserved tomato half, cut side up, next to each pile of corn and garnish with a sage sprig. Add salt to taste.

Per serving: 203 cal., 41% (84 cal.) from fat; 6.4 g protein; 9.3 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 29 g carbo.; 91 mg sodium; 1.9 mg chol.

Tomato-Lemon Grass Bisque with Shrimp

Prep and cook time: About 25 minutes, plus at least 4 hours to chill Makes: 4 servings

1/4 pound lemon grass, tough ends trimmed, or 2 tablespoons grated lemon peel 1 1/2 cups chicken broth 1/2 ounce fresh ginger, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons cornstarch smoothly mixed with 2 tablespoons water 2 1/2 pounds very ripe red, yellow, or orange tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped 1/2 pound cooked, peeled, and deveined shrimp 2 tablespoons minced chives Low-fat sour cream and whole chives (optional)

1. Cut lemon grass into 2-inch pieces and crush stalks lightly with a mallet. Combine lemon grass with broth and ginger in a 2- to 3-quart pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover tightly and simmer 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, pick out and discard lemon grass and ginger. Briskly stir cornstarch mixture into broth until mixture boils again. Chill broth mixture until cold, at least 4 hours or up to 1 day.

2. In a blender or food processor, combine broth and tomatoes. Whirl until very smooth; blend in batches if necessary. If making ahead, chill airtight up to 4 hours.

3. Pour chilled mixture into soup bowls. Garnish with shrimp, minced chives, dollops of sour cream, and whole chives.

Per serving: 132 cal., 14% (18 cal.) from fat; 15 g protein; 2 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 15 g carbo.; 191 mg sodium; 112 mg chol.

Tomato-Bread Soup with Basil

Prep and cook time: About 45 minutes Makes: 6 servings

1/3 pound sourdough bread, cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions (about 1 lb.), chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 3 pounds ripe red or orange tomatoes, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped 3 cups chicken broth 1/2 cup dry red wine 1 cup firmly packed basil leaves, silvered Basil sprigs (optional)

1. Brush bread slices on both sides with half the oil. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake in a 300 [degrees] oven until lightly golden, about 10 minutes. If making ahead, cool completely, then store airtight up to 1 day.