A passion for beans - includes related articles on bean varieties and bean preparation

Sunset, March, 1997 by Elaine Johnson

Elizabeth Berry nurtures her specialty beans as if they were members of the family. She's aided in her obsession by chef-friends who love to cook with them

Now hold out your hands and close your eyes," says Elizabeth Berry, as excited as a kid on Christmas. She shows me a tiny, hand-sewn cotton pouch with two bumps: two beans, each as fat as a thumb and smooth as satin.

"I swear they're the beans of Jack and the Beanstalk," exclaims Berry about her latest acquisition. "This guy sent them to me from Germany. He says the pods grow 12 inches long. But he only sent two! I'm going to grow them very carefully."

Many farmers grow ordinary beans like pintos or kidneys. A handful grow more unusual beans, as Berry does. But no one else makes plain old beans seem darn near magical.

She's been called the Bean Queen, and at her farm in Abiquiu, New Mexico, Berry's obsession threatens to take over her house. Beans fill the living room, kitchen, and bedroom in paper sacks, dishpans, bowls, envelopes, and zip-lock plastic bags. There are purple-and-black beans, chartreuse beans, yellow, white, and even indigo beans.

"When I grew my first beans nine years ago, I thought, 'A bean's a bean,'" says Berry. "But I gave them to a chef to try. He said they were the best he'd ever had, so I started growing more."

Soon Berry was searching for the best-tasting, most beautiful heirloom beans, varieties that might become extinct if no one creates a market for them. Two years ago she grew 650 varieties culled from the collection at Seed Savers Exchange in Iowa. Now people send her beans from all over the world.

She introduces 20 to 25 varieties at an annual chefs' tasting, where Santa Fe chefs such as Mark Miller of Coyote Cafe and Katharine Kagel of Cafe Pasqual's vote for their favorites. The next year, Berry grows the four most popular beans for seed, and as soon as she has 100 pounds (enough for 1 acre), she passes them on to another farmer to grow in bulk.

"I would grow beans just for their beauty. This way, I find a home for them," Berry explains. "It's fun to swap beans and all that, but I have a bigger vision. I want every supermarket in the country to have them. Each year I expand. It's just a matter of time, and good luck with weather."

This spring Berry will move operations from Abiquiu to her ranch in the Rio Chama wilderness (in northern New Mexico) to devote herself full-time to bean research and development.

Beneath dun-colored mesas where beans have been part of the culture for millenia, Berry plans for her Jack and the Beanstalk beans. "I'm going to trellis them 20 feet high on my purple Inca corn. That will be spectacular!"

WHERE TO FIND HEIRLOOMS

Natural-food and grocery stores sell an increasing selection of specialty beans. You can also try these mail-order sources. Bean names vary among producers. Prices do not include shipping.

Coyote Cafe General Store, 132 W. Water St., Santa Fe, 87501; (800) 8664695. About 14 varieties, including all at left; $3.95 per 1/2 pound.

Gallina Canyon Ranch, Box 2334, Twin Falls, ID 83303. About 25 varieties, including all at left. For a list and order form, send self-addressed, stamped envelope and check for $1 made out to Elizabeth Berry. $4 per pound.

Phipps Country Store & Farm, Box 349, Pescadero, CA 94060; (415) 8790787. About 100 varieties, including all at left. 69 cents to $3.99 per pound.

Zursun, 754 Canyon Park Ave., Twin Falls, ID 83301; (800) 424-8881. About 24 varieties, including Appaloosa, Cannellini, Flageolet, and Scarlet Runner. $3 per pound.

White and Black Soup

Prep and cook time: 1 1/4 hours, plus at least 2 hours for soaking beans

Notes: This recipe has been adapted from Cafe Pasqual's Cookbook, by Katharine Kagel (Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1993; $18.95).

Makes: 8 cups, 4 servings

2 cups (14 oz.) dried white beaus such as Flageolet, Cannellini, or White Aztec 1/2 pound diced smoked bacon (preferably applewood-smoked) 1/4 cup minced fresh serrano chilies 1/2 cup minced onion 1 cup brandy 1 teaspoon salt (optional) 1/2 teaspoon pepper About 1 cup cooked black beans, heated Finely chopped fresh cilantro

1. Soak beans (see page 124).

2. In a 6- to 8-quart pan, bring 7 cups water and beans to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, covered, 45 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, stir bacon often until browned, about 5 minutes. Lift bacon from pan; drain on towels.

4. Discard all but 3 tablespoons fat from pan. Add chilies and onion; stir often until onion is brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in brandy.

5. Add mixture to beans, plus bacon, salt, and pepper. Simmer, covered, until beans are tender, about 30 minutes.

6. Ladle soup into bowls. Spoon black beans on top of soup. Garnish with cilantro.

Per serving: 596 cal., 26% (153 cal.) from fat; 32 g protein; 17 g fat (5.4 g sat.); 73 g carbo (11 g fiber); 320 mg sodium; 20 mg chol.

Citrus and Bean Salad

Prep and cook time: About 1 1/2 hours, plus at least 2 hours for soaking beans

Notes: Katharine Kagel of Care Pas-qual's created this recipe.