Gilding the artichoke - includes recipe

Sunset, March, 1997 by Elaine Johnson

Better, lighter dunks for enjoying the edible thorn

Dipped in mayonnaise, drizzled with olive oil, dunked in melted butter - we know plenty of naughty ways to savor that edible thistle, the artichoke. On its own, the artichoke is innocent of fat, and a large specimen contains a mere 60 calories. Yet naked artichokes are by no means festive. So how do you give the illusion of richness while honoring the artichoke's virtuous profile?

Jane Rubey, a cooking instructor and dietitian from Orinda, California, has created a deceptively creamy, pleasingly tangy sauce she calls "lemonnaise."

What's her secret? Silken tofu. It has none of the chalky texture or strong flavor of other kinds of tofu. In fact, not one of our tasters could pick it out in our lemonnaise sampling.

You can whirl up the sauce in just a couple of minutes, and it takes well to many variations. Add just one or two ingredients and it becomes an entirely different sauce. We list eight options.

Artichokes with Lemonnaise

Prep and cook time: About 45 minutes, including 2 minutes to prepare sauce

Makes: 4 servings

3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 4 artichokes (each about 4 in. wide; 3 lb. total) 1/2 cup drained extra firm, firm, or soft silken tofu 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard Salt and fresh-ground pepper

1. Fill a 6- to 8-quart pan halfway with water. Add vinegar and peppercorns; bring to a boil over high heat.

2. Meanwhile, slice about 1 inch off tops of artichokes; discard tips. Trim stems flush with bottoms. Pull off and discard small leaves from bottoms. With scissors, cut thorny tips from remaining outer leaves.

3. Add artichokes to water and simmer, covered, until bottoms pierce easily, 30 to 35 minutes; drain.

4. While artichokes cook, make lemonnaise. In a blender or food processor (a blender produces the best results), whirl tofu, lemon juice, oil, and mustard until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. (If making ahead, chill airtight up to 1 day; stir before using.)

5. Serve artichokes with sauce for dipping.

Per serving: 124 cal., 29% (36 cal.) from fat; 9.3 g protein; 4 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 16 g carbo (7.1 g fiber); 170 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

VARYING YOUR DUNK SAUCE

For variations on lemonnaise (step 4 above), add ingredients to the basic recipe and whirl in a blender or food processor until smooth.

* Aioli. Add 1 clove minced garlic.

* Caper-anchovy sauce. Add 2 teaspoons drained capers and 1 1/2 teaspoons anchovy paste.

* Chili-cilantro sauce. Instead of lemon juice, use 4 teaspoons lime juice. Add 1/2 to 1 stemmed fresh serrano chili and 1/3 cup packed fresh cilantro.

* Dried-tomato sauce. Add 1/4 cup dried tomato halves (not oil-packed).

* Green sauce. Add 1 cup each lightly packed spinach leaves and parsley, and 1/2 cup chopped green onions.

* Madeira sauce. Add 2 tablespoons each madeira and minced chives.

* Orange-coriander sauce. Use only 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Add 4 teaspoons orange juice and 1/2 teaspoon each ground coriander and grated orange peel.

* Tamari-sesame sauce. Substitute Asian (toasted) sesame oil for olive oil. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons tamari.