Points West: mapping Santa Catalina Island

Sunset, Sept, 1997 by David Lansing

Sitting on the same latitude as Casablanca, and just 2 [degrees] south of Crete, Santa Catalina Island seems equally exotic,. a shimmering mirage just 20 miles (not 26 as the Four Preps sang in the '50s) across the sea. There are no stoplights, no billboards - and the sheriff runs around in a souped-up golf cart. Cars are limited, and everything but the residents' sunny dispositions has to be barged over. Caught in a time warp, Catalina is Southern California's most stunning testimony to the way we were - and here, still are.

Kayak tours

Paddle from Isthmus Cove toward Emerald Bay on a three-hour tour: $45. including lunch. West End Dive Center (310/510-2800, ext. 272). Half-day kayak tours from Avalon cost $65. Wet Spot Rentals (310/510-2229).

Two Harbors

Two Harbors was the backdrop for early movies such as Treasure Island and Mutiny on the Bounty. Today it's a popular camping site for tents and tepees. (310) 510-2800.

El Rancho Escondido

The Wrigley family's Arabian horse ranch is a popular stop on inland motor tours ($29.50). Visit includes a horse show. (800) 851-0216.

Where the buffalo roam

Fourteen bison were brought here in 1924 for the filming of The Vanishing American. Now a herd in excess of 200 roams the inland hills.

Airport-in-the-Sky

Buffalo Springs Station specializes in buffalo burgers and chili. (310) 510-2196. See the Catalina Conservancy's self-guided natural-history exhibit. (310) 510-0954.

Hermit Gulch Campground

The only campground in Avalon is an easy walk up Avalon Canyon near the Botanical Gardens and Wrigley Memorial. (310) 510-8368.

The Casino

There was never any gambling here, just dancing in the ballroom and movies in the art deco theater. The Jazz Trax Festival runs Oct. 3-5 and 10-12, a country music festival Oct. 17-18. (800) 866-8729. Just offshore is the Casino Point Underwater Park, home to kelp, orange garibaldi, and a sunken 70-foot schooner. Diving lessons and snorkel rentals are available at Catalina Scuba Luv (310/510-2350) and Catalina Divers Supply (310/510-0330).

Avalon

Named for an island in the King Arthur legend, Avalon started as a tent city for summer vacationers, who paid about $150 a site. At the Tuna Club, the cannon still booms when a marlin or swordfish is weighed at the green Pleasure Pier. The Drambuie Catalina Classic Marlin Tournament is Sept. 21-23. (714) 258-0445.

Capturing Catalina

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Most of Catalina's annual million-plus visitors come for day trips June through August. but locals say that September - when the air is balmy, Avalon is deserted, and the discounts begin - is the best month of all.

GETTING THERE

* Catalina Express leaves from Long Beach or San Pedro. $36 round trip. (800) 315-7925.

* Catalina Cruises sails from Long Beach. $25 round trip. (800) 228-2546.

* Catalina Passenger Service serves Orange County from Newport Harbor. $33 round trip. (714) 673-5245.

* Island Express Helicopter Service flies from Long Beach or San Pedro. $121 round trip. (310) 510-2525.

LODGING

* Inn on Mt. Ada, Avalon, from $350. (310) 510-2030.

* Pavilion Lodge, Avalon, from $139. (800) 851-0216.

* Snug Harbor Inn, Avalon. from $195. (310) 510-8400.

* Zane Grey Pueblo Hotel. Avalon. from $65. (310) 510-0966.

* Banning House Lodge, Two Harbors, from $105. (310) 510-2800.

INFO

For a free visitor guide, maps, and lodging and camping information. call (310) 510-1520. For sightseeing tours. harbor tours. and glass-bottomed boat trips, call (310) 510-2500.