The wine guide: a few good Merlots

Sunset, Sept, 1997 by Karen MacNeil

A few good Merlots

One of the most perplexing things about Merlot is why so many people are so wild about it. I mean, Merlot can be sensational, but all too often this wine has about as much personality as a dish towel.

I'm probably making enemies by the minute, but let me explain.

For my money, Merlot is not, generally speaking, as rich and intense as Cabernet Sauvignon; it isn't as lively and lip-smacking as Zinfandel; it isn't as sensual as Pinot Noir. Moreover, as anyone who's ever tasted a lineup of California Merlots knows, the whole shtick about Merlot being "softer" than other reds is a bunch of malarkey. Merlot doesn't necessarily have more softness; what it has is good PR.

Let's consider some facts:

* The current restaurant craze for Merlot has sent vintners scurrying to buy whatever Merlot grapes they can find - no matter what quality. It's important to understand that when the mania started a few years ago, most vintners did not have substantial plantings of Merlot (many current Merlot makers had none at all).

* Much of the Merlot for sale, at least in California, is not from the top vineyards. In fact, huge amounts of Merlot come from vineyard areas that charitably could be called mediocre.

* As for the Merlot from top vineyard sites, many of those vines have been in the ground only a few years. Wine made from young vines lacks depth, richness, and complexity. The wine may have a simple, nice flavor. But without depth of flavor, there's a limit to how compelling such a wine can be.

* Winemakers, viticulturists, and scientists have spent years of research attempting to understand the nuances of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. The wisdom that now goes into the growing and making of these varietals is almost awesome. And you can taste the success in the wines. Does that mean we should drink only those varieties? Of course not. But it's important to know that in the United States, with the exception of a handful of vintners who have been making Merlot for a long time, relatively little research has been done on the varietal.

Where does all of this leave us? Needing to be cautious, because you can pay big bucks for these wines. And it helps to know what you are drinking.

Merlot (French for little blackbird) is the most widely planted grape in Bordeaux. Many people believe that Cabernet is Bordeaux's major grape. Not so. Merlot is, but it's almost always blended with Cabernet (and a few other grapes) to give it more focus, structure, flavor, and all-around oomph.

For more than a century, Merlot has also grown in northern Italy (though very little of this is exported). And, of course, it's produced in California and Washington (where it can be stellar). Lots of inexpensive Merlot is now coming from the Languedoc region of southern France and from Chile and Argentina. These inexpensive Merlots can actually be delightful, but as with all bargain hunting, you have to sift through a lot of passable stuff before you find a gem.

What are Merlot's flavors supposed to be like? I think of Merlot as Cabernet's understudy. However, Merlot can often have wonderful mocha, boysenberry, and chocolate flavors and a texture that reminds you of a flannel blanket. Cozy. Inviting.

WINE DICTIONARY

Aeration

The process of intentionally exposing wine to oxygen to "open up" the wine and soften it. Some varieties, such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, benefit greatly from aeration. Wine drinkers can aerate a wine simply by pouring it into a carafe or even just swirling the wine vigorously in a generous-size glass.

- K. M.

BEST BETS

Among West Coast wineries, the Merlot standard-bearers have been Beringer, Duckhorn, and Markham in California, and Leonetti in Washington. All four make excellent wines. Here are other Merlots you may want to know about.

* Arrowood Merlot 1994, $35 (Sonoma County, California). A grand, supple wine bursting with menthol.

* Chateau Souverain Merlot 1994, $16.50 (Alexander Valley, California). Big and juicy. Begs for a grilled steak.

* Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot, Cold Creek Vineyard, Indian Wells Vineyard, or Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard, 1994, $29-$31 (Columbia Valley, Washington). All three of these single-vineyard Merlots from Chateau Ste. Michelle are luscious blockbusters with big, ripe boysenberry fruit and textures like melted chocolate.

* Colour Volant Merlot 1995, $9 (Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France). Delicious mocha, berry, and coffee flavors.

* Estancia Merlot 1995, $14 (Alexander Valley). Big, lively, and bright with terrific berry and coffee flavors.

* Robert Pecota Merlot, Steven Andre Vineyard, 1995, $25 (Napa Valley, California). Loads of voluptuous chocolate with tinges of spice.

* Whitehall Lane Merlot Reserve, Leonardini Vineyard, 1995, $36 (Napa Valley). Smoky and complex.