Our daily bread: easier than you think!

Sunset, March, 1998 by Andrew Baker, Barbara Goldman

New technology doesn't always squelch old traditions - sometimes it leads us back to them. When bread machines arrived on the scene a decade ago, they made homemade loaves an everyday possibility instead of a rare pleasure. Since then, machines are better and cheaper from $79 up. New models make larger, conventionally shaped loaves, and some turn out quick breads and cakes, even jam and yogurt. Controls are more adjustable and easier to use.

The best news is that the most traditional bread - a hand-shaped loaf - is now an easy option, thanks to dough cycles. The machine does the sticky work; you shape the loaf and pop it in the oven. If you'd like to bake today's wildly popular artisan breads but have been deterred by the time and work they take, these machines are for you.

With more than 70 models on the market, choosing a bread machine can be daunting. To narrow the field, we put 18 of the newest machines to the test, including ones that make 2-pound horizontal loaves, those with the most advanced features, and two just-introduced units that double as ovens. On pages 98 and 99, we compare their performance.

BREADMAKING BY MACHINE

These recipes must be used along with the instructions that come with each bread machine. Results are best if, after the mixing cycle, you scrape the pan sides with a flexible spatula to incorporate all the ingredients. Loaf weights are approximate.

For crispest crusts on all the loaves except Tropical Banana Quick Bread, let bread cool, then reheat on a rack in a 350 [degrees] oven for 5 to 10 minutes.

The nutritional data are averages of the 1 1/2- and 2-pound loaves.

Sunset Centennial Sourdough

Ingredients                      1 1/2-pound loaf       2-pound loaf

water                            1 cup                  1 1/3 cups

sourdough starter
(see page 104)                   1 cup                  1 1/3 cups

bread flour                      3 cups                 4 cups

rye flour                        1/2 cup                2/3 cup

sugar                            1 tablespoon           4 teaspoons

salt                             1 teaspoon             1 teaspoon

active dry yeast                 1 package              1 package

1. Add ingredients to bread machine pan according to manufacturer's directions.

2. Select basic cycle.

3. Remove baked loaf from pan at once. Cool on a rack at least 15 minutes before slicing. Serve hot, warm, or cool.

Per ounce: 90 cal., 4% (3.6 cal.) from fat; 3.1 g protein; 0.4 g fat (0.1 g sat.); 18 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 90 mg sodium; 0.2 mg chol.

Chili-Cheese Sourdough

1 1/2-pound loaf

Use ingredients and follow steps for Sunset Centennial Sourdough, preceding, adding 1/3 cup shredded dry jack or parmesan cheese and 1/4 cup minced fresh jalapeno chilies.

2-pound loaf

Use ingredients and follow steps for Sunset Centennial Sourdough, preceding, adding cup shredded dry jack or parmesan cheese and 1/3 cup minced fresh jalapeno chilies.

Per ounce: 97 cal., 7.4% (7.2 cal.) from fat; 3.7 g protein; 0.8 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 18 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 117 mg sodium; 1.4 mg chol.

Hearth-baked Centennial Sourdough

1. Use ingredients for Sunset Centennial Sourdough, preceding, and process on dough cycle.

2. Scrape dough onto a board coated generously with bread flour. Taking care not to puncture or tear dough surface (interior is sticky), pat dough gently with floured hands to form a round loaf about 8 inches wide; do not knead. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons bread flour over dough.

3. Slide a pastry scraper or wide spatula under loaf to loosen, then lift quickly and carefully onto a buttered 14-by 17-inch baking sheet. Pat to reshape loaf, if necessary.

4. Lightly cover loaf with plastic wrap and let stand until puffy, about 30 minutes. Remove plastic.

5. With a flouted razor blade or very sharp knife, cut 2 or 3 slashes about inch deep across top of loaf.

6. Bake in a 425 [degrees] oven until richly browned, 25 to 30 minutes.

7. Transfer loaf to a rack to cool at least 15 minutes before slicing. Serve hot, warm, or cool.

Nutritional data are the same as for Sunset Centennial Sourdough.

Hearth-baked Chili-Cheese Sourdough

1. Use ingredients and follow directions for Chili-Cheese Sourdough, preceding, and process on dough cycle.

2. Shape and bake as directed for Hearth-baked Centennial Sourdough, preceding.

3. After loaf has baked 25 minutes, sprinkle an additional cup shredded dry jack or parmesan cheese over it, then continue to bake as directed.

4. Transfer loaf to a rack to cool at least 15 minutes before slicing. Serve hot, warm, or cool.

Per ounce: 101 cal., 9.8% (9.9 cal.) from fat; 4.1 g protein; 1.1 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 18 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 134 mg sodium; 2.1 mg chol.

Basic White Bread

Ingredients                      1 1/2-pound loaf       2-pound loaf

milk                             1 cup                  1 1/3 cups
butter or margarine              1 tablespoon           1 tablespoon
bread flour                      3 cups                 4 cups
sugar                            1 tablespoon           4 teaspoons
salt                             3/4 teaspoon           1 teaspoon
active dry yeast                 1 package              1 package