Hurry up and wait

Sunset, March, 1998

In a half-hour or less, this beef short rib supper - complete with meat, vegetables, pan sauce, and salad greens - is organized and all but the salad goes into the oven to be ignored.

While the house fills with appetite-maddening aromas in the several hours it takes to bake, there's time for a satisfying nap, a good chunk of a book, even a preseason ball game televised from spring training.

Short Rib Supper

Prep and cook time: About 30 minutes to assemble, 3 1/4 hours to bake

Notes: Horseradish loses its pungency as it bakes on the meat. Have the ribs sawed to size at the meat market.

Makes: 4 servings

1 pound carrots 1 pound thin-skinned potatoes 1 onion (1/2 lb.) 1 turnip (about 1/2 lb.) 4 pounds lean beef short ribs, fat trimmed, cut into 3- to 4-inch pieces 1 cup fat-skimmed beef or chicken broth About 1/2 cup prepared horseradish About 1/4 pound watercress, rinsed and drained Salt

1. Peel carrots, potatoes, onion, and turnip and cut into about 1/2-inch dice.

2. Rinse ribs, drain, and lay bone-down in a single layer in a 12- by 14-inch casserole (about 5 qt.) at least 2 inches deep. Distribute vegetables evenly around but not over meat. Pour broth and 1 1/4 cups water into casserole.

3. Coat tops of ribs with 6 tablespoons horseradish.

4. Cover casserole tightly with foil, tenting if necessary to keep foil from touching ribs. Bake in a 375 [degrees] oven until meat is very tender when pierced, about 3 hours.

5. Meanwhile, break leaves from watercress and finely chop stems. Cover each separately and chill.

6. Uncover casserole and bake until ribs brown, about 10 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer ribs to a large platter and keep warm. Mix chopped watercress stems with vegetables and return to oven until watercress is slightly wilted, about 5 minutes, stirring once or twice. With slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to platter. Skim and discard fat from pan juices, then pour juices into a bowl.

7. Garnish platter with the watercress leaves. Serve the meat and vegetables with pan juices, horseradish, and salt to taste.

Per serving: 539 cal., 38% (207 cal.) from fat; 44 g protein; 23 g fat (9.5 g sat.); 39 g carbo (7.2 g fiber); 205 mg sodium; 114 mg chol.