The grill from Ipanema

Sunset, March, 1998 by Andrew Baker

It was in Belem, Brazil, that I had my first restaurant meal abroad - and it was unforgettable. At the Churrascaria Tucuruvi, waiters brandished swords loaded with still-sizzling chunks of meat, which they sliced generously onto my plate. Steps away, a churrasco buffet was laden with potato dishes, salads, rice, beans, and even stews for my choosing. Instantly, I fit into this carnivore heaven.

But farofa, the condiment the Brazilians sprinkled indulgently over the whole meal, was a new sensation. It looked like sawdust, yet tasted toasty and crunchy - and it was strangely addictive.

The beverage that washed down this feast, guarana (gwar-a-nah), made from an unusual South American berry, tasted like a cross between cream soda and champagne. I loved the refreshing flavor. Little wonder that tables were strewn with empty guarana bottles.

Churrasco is a barbecuing technique from cattle ranches in the south of Brazil. For fiestas not unlike those held on early California ranchos, local cowboys - gauchos - speared big slabs of meat, then drove the tip of the spear or pole into the ground to tilt the meat over an open fire.

In our churrascarias - restaurants that serve churrasco (more and more of which are appearing in the West) - meat cooks on rotisseries or grills and is often served rodizio-style - hunks carved at the table. Portions are generous, often all-you-can-eat.

Meats, including beef, pork, poultry, and sausages, are the main attraction. But potatoes - fried, roasted, mashed, and in salads - are always on the menu. So is the ubiquitous farofa (toasted manioc flour), plain or seasoned.

For a simple but festive churrasco menu, serve churrasco misto (mixed grill), farofa, collards, salsas, bread, and dessert. For a grander party, add as many of the buffet dishes (see page 130) as you wish.

Look for guarana soda and passion fruit (maracuja in Portuguese, maracuya in Spanish) beverages in cans or bottles in Latino markets. Passion fruit beverages are also sold at supermarkets - refrigerated, in concentrates, canned, and bottled.

Churrasco Misto

Prep and cook time: About 30 minutes

Notes: If making ahead, cover and chill meats in vinegar mixture up to 2 hours, turning meats over occasionally.

Makes: 8 servings

5 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1/2 cup olive oil 2 teaspoons ground cumin 4 teaspoons pepper 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 fat-trimmed beef tri-tip (1 1/2 to 2 lb.) 2 turkey tenderloins (also called fillets; about 1 1/2 lb. total) 1 1/2 pounds Italian sausages 4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto

1. In a large bowl, mix vinegar, oil, cumin, pepper, and garlic.

2. Rinse beef, turkey, and sausages, pat dry, and coat in vinegar mixture.

3. Lift out turkey, drain, and wrap each piece with prosciutto.

4. Thread 2 metal skewers (about 13 in. long) parallel and about 2 inches apart through the longest part of the beef. Thread 1 skewer lengthwise through each turkey tenderloin. Thread sausages lengthwise onto 2 or 3 skewers.

5. Lay skewered meats on a grill over a solid bed of hot coals or over high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Brush meats once or twice with remaining vinegar mixture and turn as needed to brown evenly. Cook beef medium-rare, about 20 minutes, or medium, about 25 minutes; cut to center of thickest part to test. Cook turkey and sausages until no longer pink in center of thickest part (cut to test), 13 to 20 minutes for turkey, 12 to 15 minutes for sausages.

6. Place skewered meats on a platter. To serve, slice beef and turkey from skewers. Cut sausages in chunks.

Per serving: 570 cal., 55% (315 cal.) from fat; 58 g protein; 35 g fat (9.2 g sat.); 2.4 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 918 mg sodium; 167 mg chol.

Farofa e Couve com Toicinho

Prep and cook time: About 45 minutes

Notes: Manioc flour, also known as cassava, or yuca, flour, is sold in Latino markets or specialty food stores. Quick-cooking wheat cereal can be used as a substitute. If making ahead, cool, cover, and chill farofa and collards separately up to 1 day. Reheat to serve.

Makes: 3 1/2 to 4 cups farofa, about 2 3/4 cups collards; 8 servings each

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds collards 1/2 pound bacon, chopped 2 onions (about 1 lb. total), finely chopped 2 cups manioc flour 1/4 cup (1/3 lb.) butter or margarine 1/3 cup sliced pimiento-stuffed green olives

1. Rinse and drain collards. Trim and discard tough stems. Stack collard leaves and slice thinly crosswise.

2. In a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat, stir bacon and onion until bacon is crisp and onion is lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Pour half the mixture (with drippings) into a bowl.

3. Add manioc and butter to pan. Stir often until manioc is golden and crisp (bite to test), 4 to 6 minutes. Pour into a bowl at once. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, topped with olives.

4. Return remaining bacon-onion mixture to pan. Stir in about half the collards until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Add remaining collards and stir until all are wilted, 1 to 2 minutes more.