Good-time buddies

Sunset, March, 1998 by Amanda Hesser

Their act is a bit like the good cop-bad cop routine. Asparagus is sweet, fresh, and clean-tasting - delicate. Tarragon is racy, aggressive, and prone to take over - bold. Together, they're a classic, with each bringing out the finest in the other. The effect is best when the tarragon is fresh. Unlike the dried herb, which has an aniselike intensity, fresh tarragon can be used with a free hand.

Braised Lamb with Asparagus and Tarragon

Prep and cook time: About 1 1/2 hours Makes: 6 servings

2 pounds boned, fat-trimmed lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 onion (1/2 lb.), chopped 1 carrot (3 to 4 oz.), peeled and chopped 1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon 3/4 cup dry white wine 3 cups chicken broth 1 1/2 pounds red thin-skinned potatoes (1 to 1 1/2 in. wide), scrubbed 2 pounds asparagus Salt and pepper

1. In a 6- to 8-quart pan, combine lamb, onion, carrot, 2 1/2 tablespoons tarragon, and 1 cup water. Cover and cook over high heat for 20 minutes.

2. Uncover and cook until liquid evaporates and drippings are browned, about 15 minutes; stir often as mixture browns.

3. Add wine and broth. Stir to scrape browned drippings free, then cover pan and simmer over low heat 15 minutes. Add potatoes, cover, and simmer until lamb and potatoes are tender when pierced, about 25 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, rinse asparagus and snap off and discard tough ends. Cut asparagus diagonally into 1-inch lengths.

5. When meat is tender, stir asparagus into stew. Simmer, uncovered, until asparagus is tender when pierced, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and ladle into wide soup bowls. Sprinkle stew with remaining tarragon.

Per serving: 374 cal., 29% (108 cal.) from fat; 38 g protein; 12 g fat (4.1 g sat.); 31 g carbo (4.1 g fiber); 177 mg sodium; 102 mg chol.

Asparagus Tarragon Soup

Prep and cook time: About 30 minutes Makes: 5 cups; 4 servings

1 1/2 pounds asparagus 2 teaspoons olive oil 1/4 cup chopped shallots 3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 1 can (14 1/2 oz.) vegetable broth 1/4 cup whipping cream Salt

1. Rinse asparagus and snap off and discard tough ends. Coarsely chop asparagus.

2. In a 4- to 5-quart pan over medium heat, stir olive oil and shallots until shallots are limp, about 3 minutes. Add asparagus, 1 1/2 tablespoons tarragon, vegetable broth, and 2 cups water. Bring to boiling over high heat and cook until asparagus is tender-crisp when pierced, about 3 minutes longer.

3. Meanwhile, whip cream until it holds soft peaks.

4. In a blender, puree soup until smooth, a portion at a time. Season to taste with salt.

5. Return soup to pan and stir over high heat until steaming. Ladle into bowls, and sprinkle with remaining tarragon.

6. Add an equal portion of whipped cream to each bowl.

Per serving: 122 cal., 55% (67 cal.) from fat; 5.4 g protein; 7.4 g fat (3.2 g sat.); 11 g carbo (1.5 g fiber); 42 mg sodium; 17 mg chol.