The low-fat cook

Sunset, March, 1998 by Elaine Johnson

Velvety sauces without cream?

Like many French classics, sole Veronique and Normandy-style chicken are known for their lavish sauces. Yet they can retain surprisingly rich character even when the sauces are adjusted to meet low-fat criteria. The secret, an unlikely ingredient, is cooked breakfast cereal. It adds more flavor than cornstarch, and the sauce retains its texture with long cooking better than a cornstarch-thickened sauce.

Karen Souther of Monte Sereno, California, uses the cereal to make a simplified version of the sole, and it also works well with this light version of chicken with cider from Jennifer Kirkgaard of Burbank, California.

Use rice cereal that cooks in about 30 seconds.

Sole with Grapes

Prep and cook time: About 30 minutes Makes: 4 servings

2 tablespoons minced shallots 1 cup dry white wine 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3/4 cup nonfat milk 3 tablespoons quick-cooking rice cereal 1 1/4 cups seedless green grapes Salt and pepper 1 pound boned, skinned sole fillets (about 1/3 in. thick), rinsed

1. In an 8- to 10-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat, boil shallots and 1/4 cup water until pan is dry. Stir shallots often until light brown, about 5 minutes.

2. Add wine, lemon peel, and lemon juice. Boil over high heat until reduced to 1/4 cup, about 5 minutes. Add milk, cereal, and 26 cup grapes (mixture will curdle) and stir until boiling.

3. In a blender, puree sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Arrange fish in a shallow 2 1/2- to 3-quart casserole. Pour sauce over fish.

5. Bake in a 450 [degrees] oven until fish is opaque but still moist-looking in thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 10 minutes.

6. Rinse and dry frying pan. Place over medium-high heat. When hot, add remaining grapes. Shake pan until grapes are hot, about 2 minutes. Pour over fish.

Per serving: 192 cal., 8.3% (16 cal.) from fat; 24 g protein; 1.8 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 19 g carbo (0.9 g fiber); 122 mg sodium; 55 mg chol.

Cider Chicken

Prep and cook time: About 35 minutes Makes: 4 servings

1/2 cup minced shallots 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 1/4 cups cider or apple juice 1/4 cup calvados or brandy 2/3 cup pitted prunes 3/4 cup nonfat milk 3 tablespoons quick-cooking rice cereal Salt and pepper 4 boned, skinned chicken breast halves, rinsed

1. In an 8- to 10-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat, boil shallots, thyme, and 1/2 cup water until pan is dry. Stir often until shallots are light brown, 8 to 10 minutes total.

2. Add cider, calvados, and prunes to pan; bring to a boil. Lift out prunes and set aside. Boil liquid down to 3/4 cup. Add milk and cereal and stir until boiling.

3. In a blender, puree sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. In each of 4 shallow casseroles (5 by 8 in.), place a half breast; cover with sauce.

5. Bake in a 450 [degrees] oven until meat is white in thickest part (cut to test), about 12 minutes. Add prunes.

Per serving: 251 cal., 6% (15 cal.) from fat; 30 g protein; 1.7 g fat (0.4 g sat.); 29 g carbo (2.1 g fiber); 102 mg sodium; 67 mg chol.