Pomegranate delights

Sunset, Sept, 1998 by Andrew Baker

"Color is everything for determining ripeness," says Jim Simonian as he picks a softball-size pomegranate during harvest on a sweltering day in the San Joaquin Valley. Using a pocketknife, he cuts the pomegranate open and takes a bite, as if it was an apple. "Don't try to eat every seed," he advises.

Indeed, an onlooking farmer says, "you need to get into a bathtub naked when you eat these. They sure stain."

For more than 20 years, Simonian has grown pomegranates in the hot, dusty fields near Mendota, California. His brother and partner, David, is president of the Pomegranate Council. Their orchards and others in the Golden State produce 100 percent of the U.S. commercial crop.

Pomegranate season is late August to late December. Foothill, the first harvested variety, has a mild taste and pink seeds. Early Wonderful, which appears in mid-September, is tarter with light red seeds. Wonderful, the biggest crop, is available from late September to Christmas. It's the sweetest, with dark red seeds.

More than 800 gemlike seeds, completely edible, cluster beneath the thick, red, leathery hide of a pomegranate. Technically, each seed is an aril (sort of a tender pip sealed in a juicy packet).

Pomegranate Granita

PREP TIME: About 30 minutes, plus 6 hours to freeze

NOTES: This coarsely textured frozen dessert is a favorite of Paul Bertolli, chef and co-owner of Oliveto Cafe & Restaurant in Oakland, California. To make pomegranate juice, see notes for Pomegranate Margaritas; for pomegranate seeds, see notes for Pomegranate-Ginger Muffins (page 130). For a smooth texture, freeze the mixture in an ice cream maker.

MAKES; 6 servings

2 cups pomegranate juice 1/3 cup orange juice 1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice 1/4 cup sugar 1 orange (about 1/2 lb.) 6 tablespoons pomegranate seeds

1. In a 9- by 13-inch pan, stir pomegranate juice, orange juice, lemon juice, and sugar. Cover airtight.

2. Freeze mixture until solid, 3 to 4 hours. Break frozen mixture into chunks. Beat with a mixer just until pieces are pea-size. Return granita to pan and freeze, covered airtight, until firm, at least 3 hours or up to 2 days.

3. Meanwhile, using a zester or grater, cut about 1 tablespoon peel from orange in long, thin shreds.

4. With a sharp knife, cut remaining peel and membrane from orange. Hold fruit over a bowl and cut between membrane and fruit to release segments into bowl.

5. Spoon equal portions granita into chilled stemmed glasses or small bowls, sprinkle each with 1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds, and garnish with orange segments and orange peel.

Per serving: 108 cal., 0.8% (0.9 cal.) from fat; 0.4 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 27 g carbo (0.7 g fiber); 4.1 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Chilies Stuffed with Pomegranate Salad

PREP AND COOK TIME: 35 to 40 minutes

NOTES: For a refreshing salsa, omit poblano (sometimes called pasilla) chilies and serve pomegranate-avocado mixture with tortilla chips.

MAKES: 4 servings

4 fresh poblano chilies (3 to 4 oz. each) 5 tablespoons orange juice 1/4 cup lime juice 1 firm-ripe avocado (about 10 oz.) 1 to 2 teaspoons minced fresh jalapeno chili 1/3 cup chopped green onions 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 cup pomegranate seeds Salt 1/4 cup crumbled cotija or feta cheese

1. In a 10- by 15-inch pan, broil poblano chilies 4 to 6 inches from heat, turning as needed, until skins blister and blacken all over, 15 to 20 minutes.

2. When chilies are cool enough to touch, gently pull off and discard skin. Cut a lengthwise slit through 1 side of each chili. Gently scoop out and discard seeds and veins; leave stems on chilies.

3. In a bowl, mix orange juice and lime juice.

4. Peel and pit avocado. Cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch chunks and add to bowl. Add jalapeno chili, green onions, cilantro, and pomegranate seeds. Stir gently to mix salad. Add salt to taste.

5. Lay chilies on plates, slit side up. Spoon equal amounts of salad into each chili; some of the salad will overflow. Sprinkle cotija cheese evenly over stuffed chilies.

Per serving: 163 cal., 53% (86 cal.) from fat; 4.2 g protein; 9.6 g fat (2.1 g sat.); 19 g carbo (2.4 g fiber); 102 mg sodium; 4 mg chol.

Pomegranate-Ginger Muffins

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: For seeds, cut ends off pomegranates. Score skin from end to end with several evenly spaced cuts. Immerse fruit in a bowl of water, then pull apart and rub seeds free. The Skin and most of the membrane float; skim off and discard. Drain seeds.

MAKES: 12 (2 1/2-in.) or 24 (1 3/4-in.) muffins

2 cups all-purpose flour About 2/3 cup sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup minced crystallized ginger 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel 1 1/4 cups pomegranate seeds 1 cup milk 1 large egg About 1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) butter or margarine, melted and cooled

1. In a bowl, mix flour, 2/3 cup sugar, baking powder, and salt. Stir in crystallized ginger, lemon peel, and pomegranate seeds. Make a well in the center.

2. In a measuring cup, blend milk, egg, and 1/4 cup butter. Pour liquid all at once into well. Stir just until batter is moistened; it will be lumpy.