Canyon-exploring in Utah's San Rafael Swell

Sunset, April, 1988

If the San Rafael Swell were anywhere other than southeastern Utah, where aweinspiring landscapes are the norm, it would probably be a national park.

But it lacks such a lofty designation, so visitors bent on seeing nearby Canyon-lands, Arches, or Capitol Reef often overlook this little-known--and usually uncrowded --territory of carved washes and eroded sandstone.

The region is well worth a visit, either on its own or en route to Utah's other natural playgrounds--especially in the mild days of spring. Summer in this high-desert land (about 7,000-foot elevation) can be scorching, and the risk of flash floods from thunderstorms can make canyon exploration hazardous. But this time of year (and again in fall), you can visit just about anywhere in the Swell, either by car or mountain bike, canoe or kayak, on foot or horseback.

No matter how you tour the area, you should go equipped with good maps (see page 74), and stop by or call the Bureau of Land Management office in Price: 900 N. 700 East; (801) 637-4584. The BLM can supply the latest information on weather and road conditions, and tips on route planning.

Best ways to discover the Swell

Seen from the air, the San Rafael Swell is a kidney-shaped uplift, about 60 miles long and 30 miles wide, veined with canyons and flanked on the east by the San Rafael Reef, a sawtoothed rampart of uptilted sandstone exposed by 60 million years of erosion. Virtually all 1,000 square miles are public lands administered by the BLM.

Until Interstate 70 bisected the area in 1970, access was limited to unpaved and out-of-the-way dirt roads. The highway does provide quick access and good overlooks, but it doesn't let you fully appreciate the Swell, since many of its most captivating areas lie in deep canyons you can't see from the road.

By car: interstate to dirt roads

I-70 is still the only paved road in the Swell, but several nameless, well-graded dirt roads get you into the region--even without four-wheel drive, though such a vehicle certainly expands your range. Remember to carry plenty of water and extra fuel. (For more tips on desert driving, see page 108 of the March Sunset.)

To enter the Swell from Price, about a 2 1/2-hour drive southeast of Salt Lake City on State Highway 6, head southwest on State Highway 10 for about 13 miles. Turn south to Cleveland on State 155.

You can continue east 13 miles on the dirt road to the Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry (follow signs from Cleveland), where more than 12,000 dinosaur bones have been unearthed since digging began in 1931. Open 10 to 5 weekends after Easter, the BLM-managed quarry has a visitor center and picnic tables. Or drive southeast to the tip of Cedar Mountain, where picnic tables command a sweeping view down over buttes and canyons.

Head due south from Cleveland, and you'll drive into the heart of the Swell. From the Wedge Overlook, about 20 miles south, you can gaze down 1,000 feet into Little Grand Canyon; this chasm carved by the San Rafael River is diminutive only in relation to its better-known namesake.

Driving down Buckhorn Wash, you'll find a microcosm of the good, the bad, and the ugly: sheer sandstone walls and streamside cottonwoods, off-road vehicle tracks gouged in the canyon floor, and ancient Fremont Indian rock art blemished by graffiti and gunshot. (April visitors take note: thousands of ORV enthusiasts usually descend on the Swell during Easter weekend.)

For more driving tours, send for an excellent new brochure on the Swell; it's free from the Castle Country Travel Council, Box 1037, Price 84501.

By foot: follow the canyons' twists

Narrow canyons, cut by seasonal streams, breach the rampart-like San Rafael Reef on the Swell's eastern edge. Exploring almost any of them by foot can be entrancing, especially if you're accustomed to wide-open mountain hikes.

You'll find few established trails; instead, simply let your route follow the twists and turns of the canyon walls.

Bring plenty of water, as you're unlikely to find any along the way. Flash floods aren't likely this time of year, but be on the alert for thunderheads building near planned hiking routes. If you do see threatening clouds start to form, stay out of the canyons.

For help in locating canyon hikes, see Michael R. Kelsey's book Hiking Utah's San Rafael Swell (Kelsey Publishing Co., Springville, Utah, 1986; $7.95).

In a canoe: join a guided tour

For an intimate look at the Little Grand Canyon, you can join a 15-mile guided run down the San Rafael River in a canoe or kayak. Peak season usually lasts from mid-May to mid-June, when snowmelt fills the fairly gentle river. There's plenty of time to relax and take in views of imposing cliffs and Indian rock art, or take short hikes up side canyons.

Red Rock River Co., 2144 Highland Dr., Suite 150, Salt Lake City 84106; 484-9022. Two-day trip ($125 per person) includes equipment and meals.

Whitewater Sports, 3495 W. 8245 South, West Jordan 84088; 255-2295. Price varies depending on size of group, food arrangements, and transportation.