From China's kitchens to yours - includes recipes

Sunset, April, 1988

From China's kitchens to yours

For centuries, China has been famous for its foods--for the infinite variety and subtle complexity of its cuisine, and for the cultural importance of esthetic dining to its people. When Chinese people settle in different parts of the world, their culinary traditions usually come with them. Here in the West, where large numbers of Chinese have immigrated, restaurants reflecting various regional styles have sprung up in great numbers in the last few decades--and won devoted fans.

But how does what we know here compare with the real thing?

To learn more about how food is prepared in China and to study regional differences in greater detail, Sunset sent an editorial research team directly to the kitchens of the People's Republic.

In August 1986, we proposed our project to the Chinese government. The Ministry of Commerce (which runs most of China's restaurants) offered to arrange the trip. Last May, our team spent 15 days in China, traveling through the four main areas where the best-known regional cuisines have developed. In the course of the trip, we sampled more than 300 dishes. We went to street markets, farming communes, restaurants, and private homes-- to shop, study, taste, visit, and enjoy.

In the next 11 pages, we share the 23 best recipes we brought back from China-- and tested in our editorial kitchens for use by Sunset readers.

Our impressions: some big surprises

What we found in private homes was absolutely amazing. In kitchens not much larger than a Western home's bedroom closet, Chinese families turned out meals with 10 or more dishes. Employing a large, detachable tabletop, a family with a small apartment could suddenly serve a dozen people. Some dishes were very simple, but others were rather complex, considering the facilities--usually just two gas burners and a water faucet. Most of the cooking was handled by one or two people, though sometimes extra helpers gave a hand with the preparation.

In restaurants, we were offered formal banquet meals. These usually began with a selection of cold appetizers--sometimes, as a centerpiece, artfully set out to resemble a bird, flower, or other symbolic figure. A succession of hot dishes would follow, often ending with soup, and then plain fresh fruit. Rice was offered but seldom eaten: we were too full.

The banquet-style presentations bore little resemblance to what most Westerners know from Chinese restaurants here. Though too elaborate for home kitchens, many banquet dishes were truly memorable. Among them: a beautifully presented meal at the Sichuan Culinary Institute; hand-cut egg noodles served in broth at the Chengdu Restaurant; a charming teahouse lunch in Shanghai's picturesque Old Town; the "drunken shrimp" at the Banxi in Guangzhou.

In this large country, season and geography determine what you eat. Transportation systems are limited to mostly local service, so food generally stays close to where it is produced. Regions with warm climates and agricultural abundance have created the most interesting specialties.

Basic flavoring ingredients

Many Chinese dishes are seasoned only with a little salt or soy sauce, some wine, and perhaps a bit of garlic or ginger. Others dishes require some special ingredients; you can find these at well-supplied supermarkets or Asian markets here.

Wine, made from rice, is used frequently; shaoxing is the most common kind. You can use dry sherry as a substitute.

Most Chinese vinegar is made from rice; it has a mellower, less acidic flavor than wine vinegar. Most often, the cooks use an aged black vinegar that has an aromatic, complex flavor much like that of an Italian balsamic vinegar. But use any unsweetened rice vinegar in these recipes.

Or, as a substitute, use a wine vinegar tempered with sugar.

Planning a Chinese meal

Chinese custom requires variety in a meal. Allow at least one dish per person. Add extra dishes for special occasions.

In our travels, tea was generally served before the meal. Beer, medium-dry Chinese white wine, shaoxing rice wine, orange soda, and mineral water accompanied meals. Gewurztraminer or dry Riesling would also be appropriate.

We have focused here on meals served at home. We've simplified menus and cooking techniques. Prepare a whole menu, or choose one or two new dishes to try along with familiar favorites.

SICHUAN

The Qing family invites us for a country banquet

Colorful Chengdu is the capital of China's agriculturally richest province, Sichuan, in the southwest. With this region's abundance comes a complex cuisine. In addition to the fiery seasonings for which it is best known, the repertoire includes clean and refined--even medicinal--flavors. Sichuan banquets, which can consist of as many as two dozen dishes, often alternate spicy foods with light, natural flavors.

To lend heat, many chili and pepper preparations are used and often combined.

Qing family country banquet

The Qing family lives on a farm in Chengdu. When visitors come, the family offers its own specialty, a custard-like version of homemade tofu. They scoop the warm, soft tofu into bowls and serve a pungent black bean sauce over it for an entree dish--or spoon warm honey over it and serve it as a dessert.