Oahu's last undeveloped shore; waves, wind, and a gentle walk at Kaena - Hawaii

Sunset, April, 1991

It's Oahu's farthest western shore. Think of the island as a ship, and Kaena Point as its prow, jaggedly parting the North Pacific. Long subject to the depredations of off-road vehicles, 12-acre Kaena Point Natural Area Reserve today is home only to waves and winds and albatross, and hikers making a 5-mile round-trip walk. The reserve accessible from west and north shores lies about 40 miles from Honolulu. To reach the west access, take Interstate H-1 west to its end at Farrington Highway and go 13 miles north to Makaha, then 7 miles to the road's end; park here. For north access, take Interstate H-1 west to Interstate H-2, turn north and go 7 miles, and follow state highways 99 and 803 north about 8 miles to Farrington Highway; go 8 miles west to the highway's end and park. (Lock your car; carry valuables with you.)

From both parking areas, routes run 21/2 miles to the point. The windier, northern path sidles along ocean coves worn from volcanic rock. The west shore trail hews to the base of the Waianae Range, which blocks the trade winds so that it gets downright hot midsummer (kaena is said to mean "heat"). Either way, you'll know you've reached the point when you see the lighthouse looming above the largest dune system on Oahu, golden hills embroidered by green beach naupaka.

Also to be seen are rare native plants like pale green Ka'ena 'akoko. Reserve managers hope the burgeoning vegetation will entice the Laysan albatross into nesting here; it only visits now.

The reserve possesses no rest rooms and no water, and the shore is too rugged for swimming; you'll find facilities and safer surf at nearby Makaha and Mokuleia beach parks. The State of Hawaii Division of Forestry and Wildlife has a pamphlet on the reserve, available at its office, 1151 Punchbowl Street, Honolulu; (808) 548-8850. ri