Treasure hunting in Europe's sporting goods stores - Beyond the West: Europe - directory

Sunset, April, 1991

When it comes to recreational gear, the West sets the pace in equipment and sportswear in the US. But try to act blase in Paris when faced with a hundred choices of hiking boots, from classic red laced polished leather waffle stompers to the last word in neon-splashed nylon; or to look in Innsbruck as if you understand the nuances of a dozen variations on the loden jacket, Austria's national costume for two centuries.

We zero in on half a dozen shops in well visited cities in countries that surround the Alps. All have wide selections and at least one salesperson who speaks some English. They also post American sizes or know conversions from European ones. All offer a wide choice of maps and are good places to get tips on local touring; three sell guided treks.

Some have equipment to rent, so you might avoid bringing bike, pack, or boots from home. Two will mail catalogs so you can shop from home (but descriptions and sizes are not in English). All are closed Sundays.

Expect prices to be steep, especially since the dollar's nosedive in 1990. (Mailing costs can also be high about $50 for a large tent from Austria, for example and shipping can take weeks.) On purchases over about $100 in the same store, tourists qualify for a refund of the value added tax, which is about 20 percent; ask for forms when you buy, and keep all receipts for customs officials.

A note if you're planning on biking: helmets and children's seats haven't really caught on in Europe, though they are for sale but not for rent.

AUSTRIA: Innsbruck. Sporthaus Witting, Maria-Theresienstrasse 39. The store's ornate building, on Innsbruck's main shopping street, is reason enough to visit. Look for skiing and mountaineering equipment, and handsome plain and embroidered wool loden jackets.

Hours are 8:45 to 12:30 and 2 to 6 weekdays, until 12:30 Saturdays (until 5 the first Saturday of the month for sales). Salzburg. Intersport Eybl, Alpenstrasse 108. Browse for clothing and gear on three tiers in this sleek store, about 10 minutes by bus from the old city. Besides vast footwear and camping gear departments, check out the funny-looking pie-size plastic disks used for eisstock, an Austrian version of boccie played on ice or asphalt. Look for the excellent Freytag and Berndt maps (about $6) for hiking, climbing, and water sports locales. Mountain bikes rent for about $16 a day (they go fast); helmets are for sale. Hours are 9 to 6 weekdays, 8:30 to 12:30 Saturdays (until 5 the first Saturday of the month for sales). From the old city, take bus 51 or 95.

FRANCE. Paris. Au Vieux Campeur, 14 stores in Fifth Arrondissement. You could spend a whole day browsing through these shops, in a four-block area next to the Sorbonne and identified by bright orange signs. Each store has a specialty from cycling to spelunking.

Orient yourself to the store locales by consulting the sandwich-board map on the sidewalk at 50 Rue des Ecoles. You're welcome to try the climbing wall next door at 48; use of gear and wall is free. October through July, hours are 2 to 7 Mondays, 10 to 8 Tuesdays through Saturdays; August and September, hours are 10 to 7. The 700-page catalog, with gear and details on guided trips, costs about $4 (plus $3 to ship to the U.S.); write to 48 Rue des Scoles, 75005 Paris. Luxembourg is one of the closest of several nearby Metro stops.

GERMANY: Munich. Sports-Scheck, Senlingerstrasse 85. One of two six-story sporting goods Goliaths in the city, it offers everything from wraparound cycling glasses to a racing windsurfer. An information desk near the main entrance helps you find the gear you want. Satellite shops are in the vicinity. This store doesn't ship to the U.S.

In the main store, note the cycling department and, in summer, an artificial wall for trying out climbing gear free). For pint-size outdoor clothes and gear, visit the KinderScheck department.

You may also want to visit Scheck-Markt, on the west side of the city (at Wettersteinstrasse 1, near the airport), featuring even more cycling paraphernalia as well as aerobics wear.

Hours are 9 to 6:30 weekdays 10 to 8:30 Thursdays), 9 to 4 Saturdays. The store is on the south edge of the city's pedestrian zone; nearest U-Bahn (subway) stop is Marienplatz. No credit cards, but traveler's checks and dollars are accepted. Sport Schuster, Rosenstrasse 3-6. Just up the street is this equally impressive store, with slightly more emphasis on clothing. Try on a pair of knickers if you want to look the part of a Bavarian hiker.

Stop at the information desk to get oriented and to pick up a catalog (about $6, plus $5 postage to U.S.); write to Postfach 330848, 8000 Munich 33.

The store, which has a putting green for testing golf equipment, is in the pedestrian zone just off Marienplatz; hours and payment methods are the same as for Sports-Scheek, but this store will ship gear back to the U.S.

SWITZERLAND. Basel. Kost Sport, Freiestrasse 51. On the main shopping street, this 125-year-old shop on three floors has a staff of 90. It specializes in hiking, tennis, and water sports in summer; snow sports (and has ski rentals) in winter. Nearby at Falknerstrasse 12, a smaller branch sells Bogner wear.