Hawaii's treasures of the deep

Sunset, April, 1992 by Elaine Johnson

The Pacific is key to the good life in Hawaii. But only recently has the ocean been the focus for the best in Island dining. With fresh interest in regional foods and Pacific Rim flavors, Island chefs are turning away from the long-favored excesses of Continental cuisine. Now they are showcasing the array of local fish in dishes that reflect the area's own emerging cuisine.

Our primer to this new wave of cooking starts with seven Island fish most apt to be available on the Mainland. In the text are adventurous, achievable recipes from innovative Hawaiian chefs. For some suggestions on where to dine on dishes reflecting the region's changing style, see page 102.

Now through summer, these seven fish are at peak supply. Mahi mahi, swordfish, and ahi are quite familiar (they also come from non-Hawaiian waters at different times). Hebi, ono, opah, and tombo may need to be special-ordered.

Though each fish has unique qualities, all can be cooked the same way, are complemented by the same seasonings, and can be used interchangeably in recipes. This flexibility means you can use what's available at the market. Expect to pay $6 to $16 a pound.

Nutrition information with the following recipes uses ahi. For mahi mahi and swordfish, add or subtract:

Per mahi mahi serving: -26 cal.; -5.5 g protein; -0.3 g fat (-0.1 g sat.); same carbo.; 58 mg sodium; 32 mg chol. Per swordfish serving: 15 cal.; -4 g protein; 3.5 g fat ( 1 g sat.); same carbo.; 60 mg sodium; -7 mg chol.

At present, nutrition data are not available for hebi, ono, opah, or tombo; similarities to the three preceding fish suggest similar data.

Supermarkets carry many Asian items used in the recipes. For Thai Muslim curry paste, Japanese chili spice, and dried kaffir lime leaves, shop in an Asian market, or use alternatives suggested.

Peppered Hawaiian Fish with Asian Slaw

1-1/2 pounds Hawaiian fish, cut into 12 equal portions (see cooking basics, left)

2 tablespoons peanut or salad oil

Coarsely ground pepper 8 won ton skins, cut into 1/4-inch strips

Asian slaw and vinaigrette (recipe follows)

2 medium-size (2/3 lb. total) firm-ripe tomatoes, each cut into 12 wedges

Rub fish with 1 tablespoon peanut oil instead of olive oil; sprinkle with pepper. Pour remaining oil into a 6-to 8-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. Add won ton strips; stir until golden and crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on towels.

Mix slaw with half the vinaigrette. Arrange equal portions of slaw and tomatoes on 4 plates.

Saute fish (see cooking basics, left); set on plates. Spoon remaining vinaigrette over fish and tomatoes. Top slaw with won ton strips. Serves 4.--Chef Alan Wong, CanoeHouse Restaurant

Per serving with ahi: 428 cal.; 46 g protein; 14 g fat (2.3 g sat.); 30 g carbo.; 694 mg sodium; 77 mg chol.

Asian slaw and vinaigrette. In a bowl, mix 1 cup lengthwise slivers edible-pod peas; 1 cup shredded carrots; 2 cups finely cut shreds napa or regular cabbage.

In a 6- to 8-inch frying pan on medium-high heat, mix 1/2 cup fine silvers (2 in. long) fresh ginger and 1-1/2 tablespoons Oriental sesame oil; stir until golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1/4 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce; 1-1/2 tablespoons each rice vinegar, mirin (sweet sake), sugar, and lime juice; and 1 small clove garlic (minced).

Hawaiian Fish with Thai Banana Salsa

For home cooks, we've simplified the chef's multiple-sauce recipe.

1-1/2 to 2 pounds Hawaiian fish (see cooking basics, left), cut into 6 equal portions

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)

Thai banana salsa (following)

Fresh cilantro sprigs

Salt

Pat fish with chopped cilantro and saute (see cooking basics, left). Set fish on 6 warm plates; spoon salsa alongside. Add cilantro sprigs and salt to taste. Serves 6.--Chef Roy Yamaguchi, Roy's Restaurant

Per serving with ahi: 216 cal.; 27 g protein; 5 g fat (0.8 g sat.); 16 g carbo.; 44 mg sodium; 51 mg chol.

Thai banana salsa. Peel and halve lengthwise 1 large (1/2 lb.) firm-ripe banana. In a nonstick 10- to 12-inch frying pan over high heat, brown banana well in 1 teaspoon Oriental sesame oil, about 8 minutes.

Chop banana. Mix with 1/2 cup chopped golden raisins; 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro; 2 tablespoons minced fresh lemon grass (tender part only) or 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel; and 1 teaspoon Japanese chili spice (nanami togarashi) or 1/4 teaspoon cayenne and 1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel.

Grilled Hawaiian Fish with Papaya Relish

Papaya relish (recipe follows)

1-1/2 to 2 pounds Hawaiian fish, cut into 6 equal portions, grilled (see cooking basics, page 100)

1/2 cup fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves

Salt and pepper

Arrange papaya relish and hot fish equally on 6 warm plates. Garnish plates with cilantro. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serves 6. --Chef Shawn Smith, Orchids Restaurant

Per serving with ahi: 192 cal.; 27 g protein; 6.8 g fat (1 g sat.); 4.6 g carbo.; 46 mg sodium; 51 mg chol.

Papaya relish. In a fine strainer, rinse 1/4 cup minced white onion. Soak onion in ice water for 30 minutes; drain. Mix with 1-1/4 cups diced ripe papaya, 3/4 cup diced red bell pepper, 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.