Mission to mission by bike - biking through Salinas Valley, California

Sunset, April, 1994 by Lora J. Finnegan

Follow the route blazed by Spanish padres through the Salinas Valley

FOR THE FRANCISCAN padres of early California, the trip between Mission Nuestra Senora de la Soledad and Mission San Juan Bautista was an arduous one. Too bad they didn't have bikes. For cyclists, this ride makes for an invigorating and challenging outing along the path of history.

The route follows lightly traveled backroads past the fields and vineyards of the fertile Salinas Valley, bounded by the Santa Lucia peaks to the west and th Gabilan Range to the east. Spring is a good time to take the ride, while the valley is still relatively cool. Tackle it early in the day, before the south-blowing afternoon winds kick up.

We describe the one-way ride from Soledad north to historic San Juan Bautista, where you'll want to leave a shuttle car (unless you arrange to have a sag wago follow you). If you pedal along at an easy pace, the 43-mile ride should take 4 to 5 hours. For the most part, the terrain is fairly flat with some rolling stretches, though the route climbs steeply over the San Juan Grade before dropping down into San Juan Bautista. Novice riders should finish at the 35-mil mark just before the grade; leave a shuttle car in the wide pullout across the street from Lagunita School.

THE ROUTE

Start your tour at Soledad Mission, 24 miles south of Salinas (from U.S. Highwa 101, take the Arroyo Seco Road exit and follow signs). Take time to wander through the gardens, where poppies now run rampant. Some ruins date back to the mission's founding in 1791, but most of the structures were built during restoration in the 1950s. The museum and chapel are open 9 to 4 daily.

Begin your ride by heading north on Fort Romie Road, which winds for 11 miles near the Salinas River (or its bed, since it's often dry here). Turn right on Gonzales River Road and head east for 2 1/2 miles, keeping an eye out for farm trucks. At Alta Street, turn left and ride through busy Gonzales on a wide shoulder for about 2 miles, then bear right and cross over U.S. 101 onto Old Stage Road.

As you ride along Old Stage Road, you'll pass vineyards, a dairy, and gaggles o geese. At the junction with Alisal Road, bear right to stay on Old Stage as the road nears low hills and pretty pasture-land. After about 20 miles on Old Stage you'll hit San Juan Grade Road.

Hardy riders continuing up San Juan Grade will find the road rough and twisty a it snakes around small farms. But it's also picturesque and peaceful--your only company may be a few quail scooting across the road. The climb gains about 800 feet in elevation over 3 1/2 miles; at a wide pullout on the summit, stop for a rest and look back over spring green hills dotted with orange poppies. From here, the rough, narrow road drops steeply; proceed with caution to avoid a blowout. At a stop sign, go straight on Salinas Road, which crosses State Highway 156. At Second Street, turn left and head for Mission San Juan Bautista (4 1/2 miles from the summit).

The present mission church was completed in 1812, damaged by the 1906 quake, then rebuilt in the mid-1970s. Note its fine corredor, facing the historic plaz shared by San Juan Bautista State Historic Park (open 10 to 4:30 daily; $2 entry).

San Juan Bautista makes a great stop for late lunch or dinner. We're particularly fond of the Mexican and Salvadoran fare at Felipe's (313 Third Street).