Rural ramblings in Carmel Valley - California

Sunset, Oct, 1994 by Lora J. Finnegan

Head upriver from Carmel, and leave the fog and crowds behind

IN CANNERY ROW, JOHN Steinbeck described Carmel Valley in the early 1940s. "In Carmel Valley the artichoke plants stood gray green, and the willows were lush along the river.... The farms of the rich little valley back up to the river and take its water for the orchards and the vegetables. The quail call beside it and the wild doves come whistling in at dusk."

Steinbeck's description of a rural haven is still apt. A population of 6,398 is thinly scattered over the big, steep-sided valley that lies just south of the more famous Monterey Peninsula. There are only two stoplights on Carmel Valley Road, the main artery. The affluent village of Carmel Valley is still unincorporated and has only lately conceded the need for paved pathways along its busiest thoroughfare. Nearby, a huge chunk of open space, the 20,000-acre Rancho San Carlos, seems destined to remain largely rural as part of a proposed deal that combines minimal housing with a major preserve.

Most visitors to the area tend to stick close to the beach and shops of Carmel. So pull away from the traffic jamming State Highway 1 and head southeast on Carmel Valley Road for a lazy fall detour. Area code for telephone numbers is 408 unless listed otherwise.

FROM WINE TO WOODPECKERS

The artichoke fields Steinbeck mentioned are still here, now sharing the valley with vineyards. The Carmel Valley appellation is one of the state's smallest wine districts, with a modest 252 acres planted with grapes.

As you head up Carmel Valley Road, the first winery you'll see is the striking Chateau Julien Winery (8940 Carmel Valley); about 4 miles from State 1, the winery is actually outside the official Carmel Valley appellation. Its attractive French chateau-style facility (the valley's largest winery) is open for drop-in tasting from 8:30 to 5 weekdays and 11 to 5 weekends. It gives you a solid introduction to Monterey County wines; the winery's most popular bottlings are Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a meritage white called Platinum (a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Mosque). Tours are offered daily, but call first: 624-2600.

The valley's other five wineries are all small and open only by appointment. They're known primarily for bordeaux varietals and Chardonnay. For a winery map, call 375-9400. Later, when you reach the village, you can stop at Bernardus winery's new tasting room (5 W. Carmel Valley), open 11 to 5 Wednesdays through Sundays.

A good place to sample Carmel Valley wines with a meal is the five-star Quail Lodge Resort & Golf Club (8205 Valley Greens Drive; 624-1581), just off Carmel Valley Road northwest of Chateau Julien. Stop for lunch at the Golf Club restaurant (serving salads, seafood, pastas), or treat yourself to a swank dinner at the Covey, which overlooks a lake.

Then continue up winding Carmel Valley Road to Garland Ranch Regional Park (8 1/2 miles east of State 1). Where the boys in Steinbeck's Cannery Row caught frogs in the Carmel River, you can loll by the rocky shores (no frog collecting, please) or hike on a 20-mile network of trails. The easy 1.4-mile Lupine Loop Trail shows you a sampling of oak, sycamore, and cottonwood stands and perhaps an acorn woodpecker or two, and takes you across the nearly dry Carmel River bed, where coveys of quail scurry about. Pick up a map and a bird checklist at the park's small visitor center.

Carmel Valley Road continues to climb until reaching the village. Carmel Valley Community Park is a good place to start exploring. Pathways wind through the park past big flower beds and into the heart of the village. It's a sign of small-town vitality here that both paths and park were created by volunteer work and fund-raising efforts.

In the Village Center, Carmel Valley Market has a good selection of picnic foods and local wines; notes and pictures on its bulletin board provide a glimpse into the community--who's giving riding lessons, who caught a big fish on a recent vacation. Other shops in the center range from a gunsmith to an imported clothing store; from Carmel Valley Road, turn right on Chambers Lane and bear left into the center.

A good bet for lunch in the village is Bon Appetit (7 Delfino Place), which has a European menu and sunny patio tables. You have to drive a bit for the best tableside view of the valley, from the Ridge dining room at Robles del Rio Lodge (200 Punta del Monte; 659-0170). The restaurant, built in 1928, has been renovated and is now open for lunch and dinner. To get to the lodge from Carmel Valley Road, turn south onto Esquiline Road and follow the signs.

You can end your journey in the village or continue up the road, which climbs a slow 40 miles to eventually join U.S. 101 south of Soledad.

A WEEKEND IN THE COUNTRY

What with the quiet and the quail, staying overnight in Carmel Valley feels like weekending in the country--albeit a very civilized country (and prices aren't quail feed). There are several small, secluded lodges, all on or near Carmel Valley Road.