Hassle-free sightseeing in S.F - San Francisco, California
Sunset, Oct, 1994 by Peter Fish, Marcia Williamson
Here's how to avoid the crowds at San Francisco's most visited attractions
GIVE US YOUR tourists, your conventioneers, your huddled masses yearning to see Coit Tower and Chinatown and a cable car and a redwood tree. Every year, 13 million visitors descend on San Francisco. And while most of them leave delighted by Baghdad-by-the-Bay, there's no doubt that seeing The City's most popular sights can sometimes be a frustrating experience.
We're here to help. We've polled tourism experts for the best advice on seeing some of San Francisco's most popular tourist destinations. We can't guarantee you'll have Fisherman's Wharf all to yourself. But you should at least go home whistling "I left my heart..." instead of cursing.
Fisherman's Wharf. Parking is fairly plentiful at Fisherman's Wharf, but rates range from reasonable to wallet-battering. You can cruise around looking for a good deal (a lot on Beach Street charges $4 for all-day parking if you enter by 10), or you can take public transportation. The wait for cable cars can be time-consuming, but the 19 Polk, 47 Van Ness, and 49 Van Ness-Mission buses all run to the wharf from Market Street, as does the 32 Embarcadero from downtown. From the East Bay or Daly City, it's easy to take BART to the Ferry Building, then take the 32 Embarcadero or simply walk the lovely 1.7 waterfront miles. If you're coming from the North Bay, you have a seafaring alternative: the Red & White Fleet ferries that run from Sausalito, Tiburon, or Vallejo will drop you right at the wharf. Ticket prices range from $4.50 (Tiburon and Sausalito) to $7.50 (Vallejo); for schedule information, call (415) 546-2896.
Alcatraz. Ferries to this much-visited attraction often fill up, so it helps to plan ahead: call 546-2700 for ferry schedule and prices, and to charge tickets to a major credit card (or avoid the $2-per-ticket service charge by stopping by Pier 41 at Fisherman's Wharf to pick up tickets in advance). Take an early boat (the first is at 9:30) for less noise and jostling at listening stops on the cell-house audiocassette tour, as well as for less wind on the island.
Cable cars. San Francisco's Municipal Railway doesn't keep track of how many visitors ride its Hyde, Mason, and California Street lines on an average fall day. But the wait at the Powell Street or Victorian Park turn-arounds can stretch to 35 or 40 minutes. To avoid the mobs, ride the least crowded of the three lines, the California Street line, which runs from Market Street west to Van Ness Avenue. Still, it would be a shame to miss the Hyde Street line's spectacular views, so ride it early in the morning--between 8 and 10--or late in the evening. A Muni passport ($6 a day for cable car and other Muni transit, $10 for three days, $15 for seven days) can help you steer clear of ticket lines. Passports are available at the Cable Car Museum at Washington and Mason streets; ticket booths at Victorian Park and at Powell and Market; the STBS ticket booth at Union Square; and a number of other locations.
Coit Tower. In tourist season, those who attempt to drive to the very limited parking at the base of Colt Tower consign themselves to a torpid uphill spiral from which there's no turning back. To preserve your disposition, we suggest taking the 39 Coit bus to the top of Telegraph Hill (call 673-6864 for route information) or walking up the breath-stoppingly picturesque Greenwich or Filbert steps from the Levi Plaza area near Battery Street.
Golden Gate Bridge. Newly designated one of the Seven Wonders of the United States by the American Society of Civil Engineers, the Golden Gate Bridge is a must-see, but, too frequently, it's a must-wait-in-a-traffic-jam-to-see. Both the north and south vista points get crowded, particularly between 10 and 4 when the tour buses congregate. One obvious solution is to avoid that chunk of the day. Another good tactic: park beneath the bridge at historic Fort Point (take the last San Francisco exit, turn on Lincoln, and follow the signs). This way, you get a spectacular view of the bridge looming above you and also get to sample 19th-century military history at the fort. From here, it's a steep but short hike up the hill to see the bridge on its own level. For a crowdless view of the bridge from the north, take the Alexander Avenue exit, turn left under the bridge, and climb the steep hill up to pullouts in the Marin Headlands.
Muir Woods National Monument. Parking is the problem here. If you come in your own car, you're likely to find even the auxiliary lot full by 10 A.M., and if you come by tour bus, you feel like part of a descending horde. To experience more trees and less exhaust, drive the Panoramic Highway up Mount Tamalpais to a lot opposite Mountain Home Inn, park, then hike down the paved Camp East-wood Road to Alice Eastwood Group Camp; from there, take the pretty Fern Canyon Trail or the more direct Plevin Cut downhill to connect with Muir Woods walking paths (all clearly marked). The return uphill is a gentle grade, and the round trip is less than 4 miles.
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