California rice, sweet or wild? - includes recipes

Sunset, Oct, 1994 by Christine Weber Hale

This diverse grain doesn't have to be a boring side dish

THE FERTILE SACRAMENTO Valley is one of the world's most productive rice-growing areas. Its rich soil and temperate climate host an astonishing array of rices.

Many varieties of short-, medium-, and long-grain rices, including aromatic rices and sweet (glutinous) rices, get finished one of two ways: hulled but with bran (brown or colored rice) or hulled and bran removed (white rice). Wild rice, even though it is not a true rice but a grass seed, grows abundantly in this area, too.

While there are enough different rices produced to provide the cook with many choices, there is so much medium-grain Calrose it actually accounts for 80 percent of the harvest, and the bulk of it is consumed domestically.

Why so many kinds? Rice is rice, isn't it? The answer is definitely no. The West's diverse ethnic populations have strong loyalties to particular kinds of rice. And the many different flavors and textures of rice bring rich variety to different menus.

Each of the following recipes emphasizes the unique character of the rice that is used. Medium-grain rice is inclined to stick and has a firm-soft bite; this makes it suitable for shaping as cakes to pan-brown. Sweet rice works well for dessert, particularly with coconut milk and mangoes. Aromatic rice lends complexity to spices that season pilaf. Boldly flavored wild rice holds up well to lively Chinese seasonings, and the chewy, nutty quality of a colored rice supplements the meat filling in baked squash.

Supermarkets usually have white and brown rices in short-, medium-, and long-grain; most also have aromatic rice and wild rice. Colored rices are more likely to be found in natural-food or health stores and gourmet shops. Glutinous rice is available in Asian markets.

California Risotto Cakes

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil 1 1/4 cups medium-grain white rice 1 3/4 cups regular-strength chicken broth 1 1/2 cups water 1/3 pound mozzarella cheese, shredded 1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese 4 green onions, ends trimmed, minced Tomato-basil sauce (recipe follows) Basil sprigs (optional)

In a 3- to 4-quart pan over medium-high heat, combine 1 tablespoon butter and rice. Stir until rice is opaque, 3 minutes. Add broth and water; stir occasionally until boiling. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until rice is tender to bite and liquid has been absorbed, 25 to 30 minutes; stir frequently and more often as mixture thickens. Remove from heat and stir in mozzarella, parmesan, and green onions. Let cool, uncovered. If making ahead, cover and chill up to 1 day.

Divide rice mixture into 12 equal portions. With your hands, shape each into 3/4-inch-thick cakes. Melt 1 teaspoon butter in a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat. Fill pan with risotto cakes, but do not crowd. Cook cakes until golden brown on each side, about 20 minutes total; turn once with a wide spatula. As cooked, transfer cakes in a single layer to a shallow pan (9 by 13 in. or 10 by 15 in.), drape with foil, and keep warm in a 300 [degrees] oven. Add remaining butter to pan and brown remaining risotto cakes (or you can brown cakes in 2 frying pans, simultaneously).

Spoon cakes onto plates, ladle an equal portion of tomato-basil sauce alongside, and garnish with basil sprigs. Serves 4 to 6.

Per serving: 302 cal. (33 percent from fat); 11 g protein; 11 g fat (6.6 g sat.); 38 g carbo.; 345 mg sodium; 33 mg chol.

Tomato-basil sauce. In a blender or food processor, whirl 1 can (14 1/2 oz.) diced tomatoes and their juice with 1/4 cup unflavored nonfat yogurt and 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil. If making ahead, let stand at room temperature up to 1 hour, or cover and chill, but serve at room temperature.

Sweet Rice and Coconut Milk with Mangoes

2 cups sweet (glutinous) white or brown rice 2 1/2 cups low-fat milk 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon coconut extract 1 can (14 oz.) light or regular coconut milk 2 large (about 2 lb. total) firm-ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted, and sliced Chopped roasted, salted peanuts Brown sugar

In a 2- to 3-quart pan, cover rice with cool water and let stand at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day. Drain, and rinse rice with more cool water and drain several times, until the water is clear. Drain rice and add to pan the milk, sugar, and coconut extract.

Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Simmer, uncovered, until rice is creamy-looking and most of the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes for white rice, about 25 for brown rice; stir often.

Transfer rice to a steamer basket (or a metal colander) lined with cheesecloth. Nest basket in a 5- to 6-quart pan above 1/2 to 1 inch boiling water. Cover basket and steam until rice is tender to bite, about 20 minutes. Serve rice hot or let stand until warm or room temperature. Pour coconut milk into a small pitcher. Spoon rice into wide bowls and top with mango slices. To taste, add coconut milk, chopped peanuts, and brown sugar. Serves 6 to 8.

Per serving: 370 cal. (29 percent from fat); 7.1 g protein; 12 g fat (10 g sat.); 59 g carbo.; 49 mg sodium; 6.1 mg chol.