San Francisco Bay's undiscovered islands

Sunset, April, 1995 by Jeff Phillips

Excellent bird-watching, a ghost town, and a lighthouse B & B on four tiny islands

It is a heck of a three-bridge day," says a hiking acquaintance as we stand on the top of Angel Island, a brisk breeze rustling spring grasses about our feet. Our 360 [degrees] view of San Francisco Bay is so clear we can see traffic crawling across the Golden Gate, Richmond-San Rafael, and San Francisco-Oakland Bay bridges.

Not far from the forested rock we stand on are other wind-buffed islands anchored fast in the steely gray chop of the bay. In addition to the familiar sights of Alcatraz and Treasure islands, I can make out islets like Brooks, East Brother, and West Marin - islands that few people who live around the bay have even heard of, much less visited.

Historically most of these smaller islands were off limits, but in the last few years four have become more accessible to the adventurous. Discover them for yourself this spring, when days are more dependably clear of fog, and enjoy excellent bird-watching, a walking tour of a ghost town, and an overnight in a restored lighthouse. Three of the islands are accessible only by boat; visits to all four require reservations.

BIRDING AND WILDFLOWERS ON BROOKS ISLAND

"The miracle here is that an island so close to the mainland and to a major industrial area is still natural," says Fred McCollum, Brooks Island's resident caretaker and naturalist. A quick glance across Richmond Inner Harbor at the waterfront clutter of warehouses and oil tank farms barely 1/2 mile away underscores his point.

Brooks Island, part of East Bay Regional Park District since 1969, is a rare remaining example of bay habitat and home to more than 100 species of birds. Hikers and bird-watchers have access to roughly 2 miles of trails that encircle the island. Views from a single picnic table at the 163-foot summit easily rival those from Angel Island.

Boaters arriving by kayak, canoe, or small skiff pull up on a shallow sandy beach that is part of a long manmade breakwater built to protect the deep shipping channel on the north side of the island. On the main part of the island, in coastal prairie habitat, McCollum is working to eradicate exotic plants that threaten open hillsides of native bunchgrasses. This time of year, the grasses are interlaced with delicate, pale pink sprays of mallow and bold yellow blossoms of mule ears. McCollum will also help birders find good vantages for watching the action.

Brooks Island is accessible only at high tide. Reservations must be made at least a week in advance: visits cost $5 per person with a minimum group of five (smaller groups can visit for a minimum fee of $25). Upcoming weekend dates are April 1 and 2, 8 and 9, 15 and 16, and 29 and 30.

If you don't own your own boat, you can arrange a visit with California Canoe and Kayak in Oakland, which, in conjunction with the park district, offers guided family kayak tours for $70 per person. Call park offices at (510) 562-2267 for all reservations, tide information, and maps.

EAST BROTHER LIGHT STATION BED & BREAKFAST

Because its top was leveled off in 1873 to form a platform for a light station, East Brother appears to float on the bay more like a ship than an island, At its bow is an elegantly restored cream-and-white Victorian topped with a light tower. At its stern is the fog signal building, powerhouse for the manually operated diaphones once used at the station.

The lighthouse, just off Point San Pablo, was actively manned from 1874 until 1969, when the Coast Guard automated the light and fog signals. Shortly thereafter, the light station was slated to be replaced with a low-maintenance steel tower. Local agencies successfully lobbied to have the station entered on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1979, a nonprofit group restored the original buildings and turned the main station into a four-bedroom B & B, using the revenues to maintain the historic site.

The automated fog signal sounds every 30 seconds between October 1 and April 1, but this time of year, East Brother Light Station is a quiet retreat from the bustle of the mainland. After a 10-minute boat ride from Point San Pablo Yacht Harbor, guests relax over hors d'oeuvres with the two innkeepers before taking a guided tour of the station. An elegant four-course dinner with wine caps the evening, and guests are left on their own until breakfast to roam the tiny island and enjoy sweeping views of the bay. At 11 A.M., guests are returned to the harbor.

East Brother is open to overnight guests Thursday through Sunday nights; cost is $295 per couple, including meals. Because the island's sole source of water is rainfall collected in a cistern, showers are limited to guests staying more than one night.

Those who aren't inclined to socialize at a B & B or who are more curious about the lighthouse than the inn can arrange day visits from 11 to 3:30 Fridays through Sundays. Pack your own picnic, and you can get the boat ride, the tour, and the views for $10 per person. Call (510) 820-9133 for overnight or day trip reservations.