Downtown Denver joins the big leagues - baseball stadium - includes related article

Sunset, April, 1995 by Lora J. Finnegan

A new ballpark is the cornerstone of a revitalized warehouse district

Downtown Denver hits a home run this month with the projected opening of Coors Field. Anchoring a venerable section called Lower Downtown, or LoDo, the handsome brick stadium fits in well with its surroundings. Once a district of abandoned Victorian-era warehouses and commercial buildings hunkered around Union Station, LoDo is now a city and county historic district, and its lovingly restored buildings are home to thriving shops, restaurants, and art galleries.

For fans seeking pre- or postgame refreshments or nonfans looking for lively or elegant dining and distinctive shopping, here is a guide to attractions within easy walking distance of the stadium. Even if you don't plan to attend a game (strike negotiators were still scoreless at press time), there's plenty to warrant a fresh look at the district.

SHOPPING AND GALLERY-HOPPING

Denver's past and future seem to merge among the 19th-century warehouses of LoDo, refurbished and turned into chic lofts and retail spaces. The best way to experience this morphing is on foot. A good place to get your bearings is the 1896 Morey Mercantile Building at the corner of 16th and Wynkoop streets, which houses LoDo's new Tattered Cover Book Store - the first satellite of the giant original across town. Among its volumes, you'll find a good selection of local history and guidebooks.

From here, head down to Wazee Street to mine a rich vein of shops and galleries. Stuart-Buchanan, Ltd., at 1625 Wazee, fills a four-story brickfront with European country furniture. Even if you don't want to haul home an armoire, it's fun to browse. A block down the street at Wazee Deco (1730 Wazee), a huge showroom displays not just art deco antiques but a range of furniture from the 1890s up to the 1950s. If the Eero Saarinen elm-burl bedroom set at $4,000 is beyond your means, you might consider an Eames chair at $25. A couple of doors down, the Art of Craft (1736 Wazee) offers an affordable array of jewelry, ceramics, and woodwork.

Continue down to where the street ends in the shadow of the new stadium to visit tiny Bacavi Arts (1900 Wazee, Suite 1537). Owned and operated by Native Americans, this studio-gallery displays a large selection of kachinas. Walk upstairs and you might be able to watch one of the carvers at work.

The brochure for a new self-guided walking tour produced by the Lower Downtown District provides a good introduction to the area and a map of 35 historic buildings and sites. You can pick up the free brochure at major hotels or kiosks along the 16th Street Mall. You'll walk by a host of new plaques around the district that further tell the story of Denver's beginnings and the roles played by key buildings.

BEYOND PEANUTS AND CRACKER JACK

Restaurants have clustered here like fans diving for a home-run ball. Here are some standouts, all within a long line drive of the stadium.

Bluepoint - the Ice House Cafe, 1801 Wynkoop, (303) 295-6076. Inside Denver's former ice house, now filled with design firms and furniture showrooms, you'll find this basement cafe open for breakfast and lunch. The green chile pozole and Tuscan Italian sandwiches are justly popular.

Breckenridge Brewery, 2220 Blake Street, 297-3644. Not for intimate dining, this fun microbrewery immerses you in the process - you sit near the filtering tanks, and the bottling line clinks along behind you. The menu features pub fare and fresh smoked barbecue, and recommends the proper brews to complement specials. Sample a draft pint of Ballpark Brown, Mountain Wheat, or Avalanche Ale, or pick up a big bottle to take home.

Le Gourmand, 1401 17th Street, 297-8663. Tucked next to a towering new bank building, this place is a bit hard to find but worth the search even though prices are on the high side. Beautifully prepared French cuisine is served in a small dining room and out on a covered (but noisy) patio.

Lodo's Bar and Grill, 1946 Market Street, 293-8555. Sink your teeth into tequila pepper steak or chipotle-rubbed chicken at this lively new steak house.

Wazoo's 1819 Wazee, 1819 Wazee, 297-8500. The outdoor tables at this casual spot have a view of the stadium. The menu features pizzas from wood-fired ovens, inventive shakes (try the Oreo cookie shake), and Guinness on tap. If you're rushed, try the Fast Eddie Dog, described as "ruff, tuff, and in the buff."

Wynkoop Brewing Company, 1634 18th Street, 297-2700. Denver's brew-pub craze started in this massive old brick building. A six-beer taster set ($4.50) lets you sample what the excitement's all about, from Railyard Ale to Sagebrush Stout. Hearty menu choices include gorgonzola ale soup, buffalo steak, and lamb-filled shepherd's pie. Upstairs is an upscale billiards hall, downstairs a comedy club.

RELATED ARTICLE: BALLPARK BASICS

Built on the site of Denver's first passenger depot, Coors Field took its design cues from the old depot and the warehouse district, particularly in its red-brick exterior. Aiming for an intimate atmosphere, designers used dimensions more typical of old-style urban ballparks. To keep fans close to the action, the ballpark has the smallest allowable foul ball territory between the seats and baselines. Seats on the right field line between, first base and homer territory boast unobstructed views of the Rocky Mountains, so when the on-field action is slow you can gaze dreamily at the peaks.