Tangy avocado salad, hot walnuts, a word on weights, and wine-tasting secrets - includes related articles - includes recipe

Sunset, April, 1995 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

Assemble three wines, all of one type but from three different regions, each clearly identified on the label. Sauvignon Blanc is a good white for the purpose, Pinot Noir a useful red. Set out three glasses. Pour a different wine into each. As you taste each wine, focus on two separate questions. First, how does it feel - harsh, biting, smooth? Second, what do its flavors remind you of - cherries, vanilla, woody stems? Do this once, and the differences will be obvious to you. Do it several hundred times, and you will memorize those differences so well that you can amaze your friends.

Among Sauvignon Blancs, these teach the regional lesson well:

Napa Valley - Grgich Hills Cellar, Robert Pepi Winery, Silverado Vineyards, Robert Mondavi Winery. (Look for juicy textures and sweet, juicy flavors like those in long grasses in the spring.)

Sonoma County - Kenwood Vineyards, Dry Creek Vineyard, Simi Winery, Clos du Bois Wines. (Look for crisp to drying textures and herblike flavors.)

Santa Barbara - Firestone Vineyard, the Gainey Vineyard. (Look for slightly juicy textures, and flavors vaguely reminiscent of asparagus.)

For the dinner entree, consider rockfish (often called snapper), lingcod, or the smooth-textured sablefish (also called butterfish, black cod, or Alaska black cod).

Among Pinot Noirs, these clearly tell stories of their regional origins:

Carneros - Saintsbury, Carneros Creek, Acacia Winery. (Think of middling-firm textures and the subtle smell of red cherries.)

Russian River Valley - Gary Farrell, Rochioli Vineyards & Winery, Dehlinger. (Think of outright juicy textures, plus the taste of soft-ripe black cherries.)

Santa Barbara - Byron Vineyards & Winery, Sanford, Santa Barbara Winery. (Think of fleshy textures and the aromas of the whole strawberry plant when you brush the leaves as you pick ripe berries.)

With Pinot Noir, just about any red meat will do, but game birds or tenderloin of pork can be especially appropriate.