Bring Napa to your table - Napa Valley, California cuisine - includes recipes

Sunset, April, 1995 by Paula Smith Freschet

A taste of the valley to try at home

In our quest to define the Napa Valley's premier eateries, we sampled some wonderful dishes, a few of which we've adapted for the home cook. These three relatively simple recipes highlight the culinary diversity that defines the valley.

We lightened Bistro Don Giovanni's portobello mushrooms and greens, but you can still serve it, as the restaurant does, with crisp-fried onion rings. The colorful Asian noodle salad from Wappo Bar Bistro features several make-ahead steps. And, although Mustards Grill makes its own European-style bread to use for the cowboy toast, we've substituted purchased frozen bread dough with terrific results.

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms with Greens

1 cup balsamic vinegar

4 cups regular-strength beef broth

1/2 pound red Swiss chard

3/4 pound broccoli rabe

4 large (4 to 5 in. diameter, 1 lb. total) portobello mushrooms

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper

2 cloves garlic, cut lengthwise into paper-thin slices

3/4 pound spinach, stems removed

4 teaspoons chopped fresh chives

In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over high heat, boil vinegar and broth, stirring occasionally, until reduced to 1/3 cup, 15 to 20 minutes; set aside.

Trim stem ends from chard and broccoli rabe, then cut stems into 1/2-inch slices up to base of leaves. Stack leaves, and cut into 1- to 2-inch strips. Set aside. Trim ends from mushrooms, rinse caps, and drain. Lightly brush with 1 1/2 teaspoons of the oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Lay mushrooms, skin side up, on a grill over medium coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Cook, turning to brown evenly, until mushrooms are just tender when pierced through centers of stems, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside.

Heat remaining oil with garlic in an 8- to 10-quart pan over medium-high heat. When garlic begins to brown, add chard and broccoli rabe stems; stir until softened, about 3 minutes. Increase heat to high. Stir in sliced leaves and spinach, cover, and cook just until wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

With a slotted spoon, divide greens equally among 4 plates; top each with a mushroom. Spoon balsamic sauce on top; sprinkle with chives. Serves 4.

Per serving: 116 cal. (33 percent from fat); 7.9 g protein; 4.3 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 16 g carbo.; 204 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Asian Noodle Salad with Grilled Chicken

2 tablespoons each hoisin sauce and soy sauce

4 or 5 boned and skinned chicken breast halves (1/3 lb. each)

12 ounces fresh Chinese-style noodles (spaghetti-size)

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions

1 large (4 oz.) carrot, cut into long, thin strands, or shredded

1/2 small (14 oz.) European cucumber, seeded and cut into thin strands, or shredded

1/2 cup finely shredded red cabbage

1/2 cup finely shredded napa or Savoy cabbage

1 can or jar (7 oz.) baby corn, drained

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)

Hoisin dressing (recipe follows)

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped salted peanuts

24 barely cooked edible-pod peas (1/4 lb. total)

1 small (2 lb.) cantaloupe, seeded, peeled, and cut into 24 wedges

24 small red Belgian endive leaves or small radicchio leaves

In a wide bowl, combine hoisin sauce and soy sauce; add chicken and stir to coat. Cover and chill at least 2 hours or until next day.

In a 4- to 5-quart pan over high heat, bring 2 1/2 quarts water to boiling. Add noodles and cook, uncovered, just until tender to bite, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain, immerse in cold water until cool, drain well, and put into a large bowl. Add onions, carrot, cucumber, red and napa cabbages, corn, and cilantro. Cover and chill up to 2 hours.

Place chicken on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Cook until meat is no longer pink in thickest part (cut to test), about 10 minutes; turn once and baste with marinade. Lift meat to a board.

Add 3/4 of the hoisin dressing to noodles; stir gently. Divide salad on 4 or 5 plates; sprinkle with peanuts. Arrange equal portions of edible-pod peas, cantaloupe, and endive alternately around rims of plates. Cut each breast half crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices; keep shape intact. Top each salad with 1 sliced breast half. Drizzle remaining dressing over chicken. Makes 4 or 5 servings.

Per serving: 577 cal. (19 percent from fat); 46 g protein; 12 g fat (2.2 g sat.); 68 g carbo.; 1,708 mg sodium; 142 mg chol.

Hoisin dressing. In a small bowl, whisk 1 clove minced garlic, 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger, 1/2 cup seasoned rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons each hoisin sauce and soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, and 1 tablespoon chili oil. If making ahead, cover and chill until next day.

Cowboy Toast

2 large heads (1/2 lb. total) garlic

About 3 tablespoons olive oil

All-purpose flour

1 loaf (1 lb.) frozen white bread dough, thawed

Goat cheese spread (recipe follows)

Cut garlic heads into halves horizontally, keeping each half intact as much as possible. Pour 2 tablespoons oil into an 8-inch-wide baking pan; swirl pan to coat bottom. Lay garlic, cut side down, in pan. Bake in a 375 [degrees] oven until cloves are golden brown on bottom and oozing at edges, about 35 minutes. Let stand until cool. Using a fork or knife tip, pick out cloves.